tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75235636003349989852024-03-23T10:14:01.110+00:00Knitting and Morefidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.comBlogger61125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-82519135555505640702018-07-23T13:39:00.000+01:002018-07-23T13:39:55.891+01:00Designing a Half Hap Shawl with Shetland Lace patterns, Part 1At the moment I am working on a number of projects. One project that I started working on several months ago was designing and knitting a half hap (triangular) shawl with Shetland Lace Patterns. One of the subjects I covered on the Knitting Holiday in June was 'Knitting with Beads' and Shetland Lace. I designed a scarf as the project for the holiday but also wanted to design a Hap Shawl.<br />
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Hap Shawls are traditional square shawls usually worked in garter stitch throughout. They generally have a garter stitch square at the centre with a lace border and edging added on around the square. They can be worked from the outside in or the inside out. The designs I was looking at were worked from the inside out starting with a garter stitch square knitted diagonally with increases and decreases. The edge stitches where picked up all around the garter stitch square and a lace border, typically Old Shale, was knitted out from the garter stitch square. The shawl was finished with an edging which also cast off the border lace stitches.<br />
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I decided I didn't want to knit a square shawl, I would rather have a triangular shawl hence the half hap. I worked out the stitch patterns I wanted to use but I have to admit I didn't work any gauge swatches before I started the shawl. I also decided not to use a traditional Shetland yarn but a hand dyed yarn from an indie dyer.<br />
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I have a fairly local yarn shop '<a href="https://www.facebook.com/thehandmadestudios/" target="_blank">Handmade Studios</a>' in Rowlands Castle who stock a range of indie dyed yarn and every month have a number of 'dyers of the month' featured in the shop so there is always something new to see. I visited the shop and bought a number of skeins including two skeins dyed by <a href="http://www.feltfusion.co.uk/" target="_blank">Felt Fusion</a> . The yarn is an extra fine merino/silk blend 4ply/fingering weight yarn. One skein was a semi-solid reds colour and the other was rainbow colours.<br />
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I chose the semi-solid red to be the colour for the centre garter stitch section. I also wanted to put some lace into this garter stitch triangle so worked out a repeatable motif based on the 'Cat's Paw' lace pattern. The garter stitch triangle starts with one stitch and increases by one stitch every row using the yarn over increase method.<br />
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I did work out the placement of the lace pattern and how it would repeat on a chart using the Stitchmastery software which I use to create all of my charts now. The knitting of the triangle went smoothly and I decided once I had 6 repeats of the Cat's Paw pattern that would be large enough. The triangle stitches were but on a holder as I still hadn't decided how I wanted to finish the shawl.<br />
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I then picked up stitches from the edge yarn overs for the border pattern and started to work the Old Shale border. As I was knitting I started to feel that the centre triangle could do with being a bit larger and the edges of the knitting seemed to be quite tight, distorting the centre triangle. I decided to undo the border and add another pattern repeat of the Cat's Paw pattern.<br />
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While working on this new section I also realised I needed more stitches before starting to knit the border pattern. I can pick up one stitch for every ridge each side, but the length of the edge of the triangle is considerably longer than the vertical measurement of rows up the centre of the triangle. Therefore I need more stitches for the border than the number of loops to pick up.<br />
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When I started the border the second time, I picked up the stitches as before but on the next row I increased stitches to match with the edge length. The knitting now sits much better as you can see from the images below. I now need to finish knitting the border and then add the lace edging to cast everything off. When I have done this I will write an update and show the finished shawl.<br />
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Right side of reworked garter stitch triangle.</div>
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Wrong side of garter stitch triangle.</div>
<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-72742741700878186842016-04-27T18:34:00.000+01:002016-04-27T18:34:08.980+01:00Blocking Your KnittingA few years ago I wrote an article for Knitting Magazine about blocking your knitting and thought I would re-publish it here.<br />
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There are a number of reasons why you might want to block
your knitting after finishing the knitting but before sewing up the pieces.<o:p></o:p></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal">Checking
the size of the finished pieces. Some minor adjustments can be made to the
size of the pieces with blocking but depending on the yarn content the
adjustments may not be permanent.<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">Getting
rid of wavy uneven edges which makes sewing up easier<o:p></o:p></li>
<li class="MsoNormal">‘Setting’
the stitches i.e. evening out uneven knitting (depending on the yarn
fibre) and relaxing the knitting to give a more professional look to the
finished item.<o:p></o:p></li>
</ul>
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<b>Equipment for blocking your knitting<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>A blocking mat. </b>Most
methods of blocking require the use of water so whatever you use as a blocking
mat should be water resistant or at least not damaged by water. It is not
necessary to buy a blocking mat; you can use a pad of towels on top of carpet
or a spare bed. You can buy blocking mats e.g. KnitPro Blocking Mats which are
9 squares of dense foam which lock together like a jigsaw puzzle. An
alternative to this is to look for the foam play mats sold for children to play
on or a camping bed roll which isn’t very wide but is quite long.<b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
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You can also make a blocking mat from a sheet of polystyrene
covered with plastic to make it waterproof and then covered again with a check
fabric. The check fabric provides a grid making it easier to block out your
knitting. You could also make a blocking mat from a dress makers cutting board
but again you would need to cover it with plastic or cling film to keep it
waterproof but it comes with a grid already printed on the board.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Pins</b> When blocking pieces of knitting you will
generally need to pin the pieces in place while they dry. I use long glass headed
steel pins. If you use long pins they aren’t so easily lost in the knitting.
The glass headed pins have coloured heads and as they are glass you can steam
your knitting with an iron without worrying if the pin heads are going to melt.
You can also use non-rusting steel T-pins.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Tape measure</b> Use an accurate tape measure if you are
pinning out pieces to a given size. Don’t use an old worn or stretched tape
measure.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Methods of Blocking</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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There are a number of ways to block your knitting and the
method used is largely dependent on the fibre content of the yarn used in the
knitted pieces. Some fibres can be washed or steamed and blocked, some can be
washed and blocked, and some should be blocked dry and then wetted. It is
always advisable to look on the ball band to see what washing instructions have
been provided by the manufacturer but here are some general guild lines that
you may find helpful.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Wool and mixes with a high wool
content <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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I normally wash the garment pieces
using whatever method I will be using to launder the finished garment
(generally hand washing but machine washed in net bags if it is machine
washable). If hand washed I spin off the excess water and lay the pieces out
flat (wrong side up) on the blocking mat. If the garment is knitted in stocking
stitch and is the correct size I don’t usually pin out the pieces. If the
garment is knitted in lace or another stitch pattern that needs to be stretched
open I will pin the pieces to size and leave to dry.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Lace scarf pinned out
on blocking mat<o:p></o:p></div>
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Lace swatch washed and
blocked out with second sample of the same swatch as it is after knitting and
before blocking<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wool can also be steam blocked. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Wool swatch after
knitting but before blocking<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Pin out the pieces to the size
required. Smooth the pieces from the centre outwards and be careful not to over
stretch the knitting in any one direction.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wool swatch pinned in
the corners<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wool swatch pinned out
flat<o:p></o:p></div>
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If you are going to steam block
your piece of knitting you should use glass headed pins to pin out the piece.
Using a steam iron set to ‘wool’ and with steam hover the iron over your piece
of knitting allowing the steam to penetrate the fabric. If you move the iron
away you can pat the steam into the fabric but make sure you don’t scold
yourself. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Wool swatch being
steamed<o:p></o:p></div>
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You can put the iron on the
knitting if you want a very flat surface but remember to steam press NOT iron.
Also make sure you steam all the fabric. <o:p></o:p></div>
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You need to remember that wool
fibre is elastic. If you have stretched out the knitting in the blocking
process once you wash that item you will have to block it out again as it is
not possible to ‘fix’ the stretched blocking permanently in wool.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Cotton</b> Again I would wash the garment pieces (in this
case machine washed) and lay them out on the blocking mat to dry. The washing
helps to relax the knitting and also shows what it will look like once the
garment is laundered. The sample of rib and lace knitted in cotton became much
flatter and open after washing without being stretched.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cotton swatch before washing<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cotton swatch after washing<o:p></o:p></div>
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You can pin out your pieces or just leave them smoothed out
flat to dry. Cotton can also be steam pressed i.e. you can press the steam iron
onto the knitting if you want a flat surface as cotton can withstand quite a
lot of heat. However if the knitting is worked in a textured stitch you may
prefer to just wash or steam the pieces to retain the texture.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Acrylic</b> Acrylic fibre does not respond well to heat.
You can wash the pieces in the way you will launder the finished garment and
lay them out flat to dry, or while they are still dry, you can pin out the
pieces on the blocking mat and then wet them either with a water spritzer or by
placing damp tea towels over the knitting so the moisture penetrates the
knitted pieces and then leave them to dry.<o:p></o:p></div>
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DO NOT iron or steam unless you want a limp open fabric.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Bamboo</b> <b>and other new fibres</b> Yarns made from
new fibres such as bamboo, Soya, milk protein and corn are becoming more
readily available so it is important to know how to block knitting made from
these fibres. Although they are all made from natural sources they go through a
manufacturing process to be made into fibre so it is generally not a good idea
to use steam or an iron on them. The safest way to treat knitted pieces in any
of these fibres is to block them out dry and then apply damp tea towels to the
knitting. I usually pat down the damp
tea towels to help the moisture penetrate the fibre, leave the tea towels for 3 or
4 hours and then remove them and leave the knitting to dry completely before
unpinning.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bamboo yarn in particular stretches quite easily when dry
and stretches even more when wet so it is very important to block bamboo from
dry not after washing it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Blocking out a garment</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I photographed the stages of pinning out a waistcoat knitted
in bamboo yarn. I joined the shoulder seams as part of the knitting as I prefer
to have knitted shoulder seams, however this can cause some problems when
blocking the pieces as you have to allow for the shoulder slope.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I started by pinning out the back piece. I placed pins in
the back neck, either side of the shoulder seam, the underarm points and the
bottom edge at the side seam. The bottom width, back width at the underarm
point, back shoulder width, back neck width, armhole length and side seam from
underarm to bottom where all checked against the measurements on the garment
schematic.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpX4JprtFoFFyk415_K56Caz3CHje_VHjsJRiwp80Frd8WCGjlYMpk0YJxtENBgmd3-z_Xz808F5X7Q42zzqHLfrpOSfuZMNDePkYhMhsFMFc1GuECpAPNiEV98Glnd1eMDuETmTLu3Wa/s1600/9+corners+pinned+image+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQpX4JprtFoFFyk415_K56Caz3CHje_VHjsJRiwp80Frd8WCGjlYMpk0YJxtENBgmd3-z_Xz808F5X7Q42zzqHLfrpOSfuZMNDePkYhMhsFMFc1GuECpAPNiEV98Glnd1eMDuETmTLu3Wa/s320/9+corners+pinned+image+10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bamboo waistcoat back pinning out the basic
shape<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I then started to pin the bottom and side seam edges using
the grid on the blocking mat as a guide.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRapgctFko37-kkWiJDMxjCO5snY36RhX2d8XPdfGuwge6FPD6rYYlciD4HdFLITPj3YXzavOm54ypv7v8DQ0W_W_JmQHk9quThSCaKeX8pbZ2cDqPUxrq1f_-zIgyZKlpC2a-0_w4Kcn/s1600/10+bottom+and+side+edges+image+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRapgctFko37-kkWiJDMxjCO5snY36RhX2d8XPdfGuwge6FPD6rYYlciD4HdFLITPj3YXzavOm54ypv7v8DQ0W_W_JmQHk9quThSCaKeX8pbZ2cDqPUxrq1f_-zIgyZKlpC2a-0_w4Kcn/s320/10+bottom+and+side+edges+image+11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Waistcoat back showing the bottom and one side
edge pinned<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1noPiXhPd-iCy42NIKdkq98T4gWw1lmF7XyRMckBTdXoCWeik_wM2vcewCgt3_qZg6aIKGxj06a28Uu3pdYW6ErhRc1bJGthJAS78h74zjLNZX_TyNyxEkdJL64g1tnw-_NnM97_TDVx_/s1600/11+back+pinned+out+image+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1noPiXhPd-iCy42NIKdkq98T4gWw1lmF7XyRMckBTdXoCWeik_wM2vcewCgt3_qZg6aIKGxj06a28Uu3pdYW6ErhRc1bJGthJAS78h74zjLNZX_TyNyxEkdJL64g1tnw-_NnM97_TDVx_/s320/11+back+pinned+out+image+12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Waistcoat back showing all edges pinned<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once all the back of the waistcoat was pinned out I then
started to pin the left front.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBKnT2EVvp5hPXwrfp9l5gYp8B7wA5M48awzMW3iY56FKCdxOkBsADvViOF0z_uwUugqT1gLJtwIFRkCbBo-XU8-pWQyzM6fn-iyrNF82e0RjuroAjrvYQ_XXE2ESjbIxcJuUyrUQGtCTc/s1600/12+one+front+pinned+out+image+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBKnT2EVvp5hPXwrfp9l5gYp8B7wA5M48awzMW3iY56FKCdxOkBsADvViOF0z_uwUugqT1gLJtwIFRkCbBo-XU8-pWQyzM6fn-iyrNF82e0RjuroAjrvYQ_XXE2ESjbIxcJuUyrUQGtCTc/s320/12+one+front+pinned+out+image+13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Waistcoat left front pinned in place<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once I finished pinning the left front I then pinned the
right front overlapping the front bands at the centre front and pinning the
shoulders to allow for the shoulder slope.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTEG451xAQTeSjeobIMYPGpjSYUyklZFaefDo_cW-3sY1aQQ0rt7pC003cXI2Hx7izU2n9uPZ6ljOY-ynjhmTbHucXCpAgs2PH5kFykyJ1_-dosLtUQMSV5f8-pW5-TuKuBYgxyuPC6VFU/s1600/13+both+fronts+pinned+out+image+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTEG451xAQTeSjeobIMYPGpjSYUyklZFaefDo_cW-3sY1aQQ0rt7pC003cXI2Hx7izU2n9uPZ6ljOY-ynjhmTbHucXCpAgs2PH5kFykyJ1_-dosLtUQMSV5f8-pW5-TuKuBYgxyuPC6VFU/s320/13+both+fronts+pinned+out+image+14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Waistcoat fronts pinned out.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Having pinned the garment pieces to size I then covered the
knitting with tea towels that I wetted and wrung out. I patted down the tea
towels to ensure the moisture penetrated the knitted, left them on the knitting
for several hours then removed the tea towels and left the knitted pieces until
completely dry.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2iuN8UtxbRFiQIS_r_KmY78IPXUMhgOPuFwOoemAi5rvPHaIMy_oeVtslMI3aa2sGrN-FEHL2x_2yNJXYl8t9v7DCAshYBnAaMlU3Yr0oqP60R_6fOreY9p5nXYGsLIY106z-v2RGc0i/s1600/14+wet+towel+on+back+image+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2iuN8UtxbRFiQIS_r_KmY78IPXUMhgOPuFwOoemAi5rvPHaIMy_oeVtslMI3aa2sGrN-FEHL2x_2yNJXYl8t9v7DCAshYBnAaMlU3Yr0oqP60R_6fOreY9p5nXYGsLIY106z-v2RGc0i/s320/14+wet+towel+on+back+image+15.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Back of waistcoat covered with a tea towel<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I hope you found this information useful.</div>
fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-49797575359919631102016-04-06T16:50:00.000+01:002016-04-06T16:56:49.259+01:00Things don’t always go right even for professionals<div class="MsoNormal">
I have been teaching a ‘Knit a Jumper’ course at Liss Wools
in Hampshire over the last month or so. The knitters where given a Round Neck
Set-in Sleeve jumper pattern in DK weight yarn as the start of the course. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In
the first class we went through taking some basic measurements to help select
the most appropriate size for each person and then made some design choices to
make the jumper individual to each person e.g. what welt pattern to use, how
deep to make the welt, making adjustments to the overall length of the garment,
selecting the Front Neck depth for either crew neck, round neck or scoop neck
and the sleeve length from short sleeve, ¾ sleeve to long sleeve.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The ladies attending the course all chose to make an asymmetric
tunic length garment with a deep garter and rib welt and side slits. One of the
ladies also wanted a ‘Henley style’ round neckline with front opening. Another
of the ladies wanted to add a pocket to the front of the garment as well.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Having gone through the various options they all started knitting
their garments at the end of the first workshop.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At least one of the ladies had attended another of my
knitting workshops at Liss Wools and had originally asked if she could make the
garment in a chunky yarn. I said that would necessitate calculating a completely
new pattern so she agreed to go with the pattern I had already worked out. I
thought it would be a good idea to knit a chunky version anyway which I did.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZnQ_obNmF3i69t-AIbEfYcwsm0TMkceqDfNNCl9mUBjVWQXijMKR6zT-SHSTZGjYFrqpNfwvAIACeGe3GF9t9EApTVUO4NGqltBMCm0GekfNkeCqCIYujxDffm5Whoopp9h6qITgxQ8Ge/s1600/1+jumper+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZnQ_obNmF3i69t-AIbEfYcwsm0TMkceqDfNNCl9mUBjVWQXijMKR6zT-SHSTZGjYFrqpNfwvAIACeGe3GF9t9EApTVUO4NGqltBMCm0GekfNkeCqCIYujxDffm5Whoopp9h6qITgxQ8Ge/s320/1+jumper+front.jpg" width="209" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnhzEzCvPLdbVyMM1Tg3YvZ9lbem7U1aYWzCABWq8FozPCGYlk-M2-4_qMS9dXT2AUXTWa0R6taUZcZBRdmvrKQ3TKoRPY4ytY2A5ju1YWKtkk3gnO5-O1YrgI81GF_csY97qVker2_C-l/s1600/2+jumper+side+view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnhzEzCvPLdbVyMM1Tg3YvZ9lbem7U1aYWzCABWq8FozPCGYlk-M2-4_qMS9dXT2AUXTWa0R6taUZcZBRdmvrKQ3TKoRPY4ytY2A5ju1YWKtkk3gnO5-O1YrgI81GF_csY97qVker2_C-l/s320/2+jumper+side+view.jpg" width="193" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxBefagNLe2dkAVxtHDtLn9esJR13bCDUM2PpCBzbbKJLyCzgY7bbORcPvWhnKXUAee8SL9l_BN-spzsJlw7KwY5vykvWxEp33z3IpLvPNd9ZQdtjL_KaPSPMFNM1M8yOftkRnomjNtvxV/s1600/3+welt+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxBefagNLe2dkAVxtHDtLn9esJR13bCDUM2PpCBzbbKJLyCzgY7bbORcPvWhnKXUAee8SL9l_BN-spzsJlw7KwY5vykvWxEp33z3IpLvPNd9ZQdtjL_KaPSPMFNM1M8yOftkRnomjNtvxV/s320/3+welt+detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Looking at the jumper you may think it is perfectly OK and
basically it is, but what I forgot when calculating the new pattern was that
the original pattern was based on a close fitting garment in DK yarn. I knitted
and finished the garment at which point I realised that the fit was a ‘bit snug’
at least for my taste in a chunky garment. I had forgotten to compare the ‘finished
measurements’ information in my pattern with what I actually wanted.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have subsequently re-worked the pattern with classic ease
(i.e. approx. 2 inches of ease) which I think will suit the garment better, or
at least I am more likely to wear the new garment.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This wasn't the only ‘disaster’ relating to this garment. I
like to photograph the garments I knit on a mannequin, usually on our decking
at the back of the house. I put the garment on the mannequin which was fine and
took the first photo but the sun was making the top of the picture very bright
so I thought I would move the mannequin over to the corner of the decking out
of the direct sun. Unfortunately I hadn't realised when my DH was mending the
decking some months ago that he hadn't fixed down one of the planks. Yes you
have guess what happened, I stood on the end of the loose plank and
unfortunately fell over and sprained my wrist.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am fine now but who'd have thought photographing knitting could
be so dangerous! I must set up a risk assessment sheet before the next photo
session!!<o:p></o:p></div>
fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-71436531800449452252016-01-27T16:41:00.000+00:002016-01-27T16:48:26.722+00:00Bavarian Twisted StitchesIt's only a few weeks now before the Unravel Exhibition at Farnham Maltings, the 19th to 21st February. As well as having a stand at the exhibition I am also teaching a workshop on Bavarian Twisted Stitches on the Friday morning. The workshop is from 10.00 to 1.00 even though access to the stalls (the official opening time) isn't till 12.00<br />
<br />
Quite a few years ago (April 2006) I wrote an article about Bavarian Knitting in Knitting magazine and thought I would republish the article here, so here it is.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Bavarian Twisted
Stitch</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By Fiona Morris<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bavarian Twisted Stitch is one of the traditional styles of
knitting that originated in the Bavarian region of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region>. The patterns look similar
to Aran patterns but use motifs with finer detail and stitches which travel
across the knitted surface.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like many types of traditional Folk knitting these patterns
were developed mainly in stocking knitting. The patterns were used to create
shape as well as interest in the stockings. The patterns use a large variety of
twisted and travelling stitches, fine cables and twisted knit stitches often
worked on a purl background. The use of twisted stitches tightens the stitch
and helps to raise the pattern above the purl background resulting in a more
sculptured effect.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many of the motifs used in the stockings are reminiscent of
the fine carved wood work found in this southern part of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region>. These
stocking motifs became more and more elaborate and as time passed were also
included in waistcoats and jackets for both men and women.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The raised sculptured effect is produced by the use of
twisted stitches within the pattern. Looking at the pattern from the right side
of the knitting all the knit stitches are worked by ‘knitting through the back
of the loop’ to create a twisted stitch which is tighter than a normal knit
stitch. Traditionally garments would have been made in the round so it was only
necessary to work through the back of the loop on knit stitches, however if the
pieces are worked flat on wrong side rows the ‘twisted stitches’ are ‘purled
through the back of the stitch’ to give a tighter stitch.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
The ‘cables’ in the samples are
all 1 over 1 stitch, but can be a ‘knit over a knit stitch’ or a ‘knit over a
purl stitch’ either to the right or left.
The ‘cables’ are quite easy to work without a cable needle. If you want
to work without a cable needle the stitches can be crossed in a number of ways.
I have described two ways of working the cables without a cable needle. The
first method works the stitches out of order whereas the second method swaps
the position of the stitches before they are worked.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
Cable Twist Left<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Knit into the back of the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch on the left
needle taking the right needle behind the first stitch, then knit into the back
of the 1<sup>st</sup> stitch on the left needle before slipping both stitches
off the needle. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cable Twist Right<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Knit into the back of the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch on the left
needle taking the right needle in front of the 1st stitch, then knit into the
back of the 1<sup>st</sup> stitch on the left needle before slipping both
stitches off the needle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Working this method I find the stitches can look uneven, so
I prefer to swap the positions of the stitches before knitting them. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
Cable Twist Left Knit over Knit
(CT2L)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To do this, with the yarn at back slip the next 2 stitches
(purlwise) to the right needle, insert the tip of the left needle into the 1<sup>st</sup>
slipped stitch (from left to right) crossing in front of the 2<sup>nd</sup>
stitch, drop both stitches off the right needle and with the tip of the right
needle pick up the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch and put the tip of the left needle
under the front strand of this stitch (from left to right) to work a twisted
knit stitch and then knit through the back of the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cable Twist Left Knit over Purl (CT2LP)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With yarn at front slip the next 2 stitches to the right
needle, insert the tip of the left needle into the i1st slipped stitch (from
left to right) crossing in front of the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch, drop both
stitches off the right needle and with the tip of the right needle pick up the
2<sup>nd</sup> stitch. Put the tip of the left needle into the stitch (from
left to right) but behind the right needle ready to purl the stitch. Knit the
stitch on the left needle through the back of the loop for a twisted stitch.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cable Twist Right Knit over Knit (CT2R)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To work a right crossed cable, with the yarn at back slip
the next 2 stitches to the right needle, insert the tip of the left needle into
the 1<sup>st</sup> slipped stitch crossing behind the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch,
drop both stitches off the right needle and with the tip of the right needle
pick up the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch (crossing in front of the 1<sup>st</sup>
stitch) and work a twisted knit stitch. Knit through the back of the 2<sup>nd</sup>
stitch to complete the cable.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cable Twist Right Knit over Purl (CT2RP)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With the yarn at the back slip the next 2 stitches to the
right needle, insert the tip of the left needle into the 1<sup>st</sup> slipped
stitch crossing behind the 2<sup>nd</sup> stitch, drop both stitches off the
right needle and with the tip of the right needle pick up the 2<sup>nd</sup>
stitch (crossing in front of the 1<sup>st</sup> stitch) and work a twisted knit
stitch. Purl the next stitch on the left needle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Working without a cable needle makes the knitting much
quicker than working a traditional cable cross with a cable needle.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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Below are examples of a number of Bavarian Twisted Stitch patterns taken from the '<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Bäuerliches</span></span> Sticken' pattern books. These are a set of 3 books of traditional stitch patterns in German giving the 'charts' in there original form. The books are available from Schoolhouse Press and include an explanation for the unusual charts/symbols used throughout the books.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7LAx_489DStdxGDlQoaQdes_hyphenhypheneyQ3OeQ-mMP0SmAeKwu3bShkWsN1t9lBXk_3KasRCUeNu78eY9n1tBBiWDKljWyswhV7k6iFxJIcy8H__6cNXRDLlHNTfluwLagqPQj5mXadsGdy41/s1600/Sample+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh7LAx_489DStdxGDlQoaQdes_hyphenhypheneyQ3OeQ-mMP0SmAeKwu3bShkWsN1t9lBXk_3KasRCUeNu78eY9n1tBBiWDKljWyswhV7k6iFxJIcy8H__6cNXRDLlHNTfluwLagqPQj5mXadsGdy41/s320/Sample+1.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkIDBzaILG7z8Xn1jGF6iEyzANVNJ3iEb6GkfEaZhI3zU5BWzxUPcpUqOqA4IDajMGu3Gi8L5Iooz-AvTZTOQIdxab-pBfv8ywzvZMH_Idl0yOSONlps5CyfTEg4La-vjvUKFaX70cCyzh/s1600/Sample+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkIDBzaILG7z8Xn1jGF6iEyzANVNJ3iEb6GkfEaZhI3zU5BWzxUPcpUqOqA4IDajMGu3Gi8L5Iooz-AvTZTOQIdxab-pBfv8ywzvZMH_Idl0yOSONlps5CyfTEg4La-vjvUKFaX70cCyzh/s320/Sample+2.jpg" width="172" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4E_nB7A5haxOA90ciVnkSv6cMyklRDRJse9GpROMV7ZwBuO2ZM2lZUZMUu6L21mRz33e6zMRS28BNZy8t4ze22Kf8hqnXN0OjJB8gyJT43KEjCYWt0TNPvVwHghG0wQcTKF2pG95jYYO-/s1600/Sample+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4E_nB7A5haxOA90ciVnkSv6cMyklRDRJse9GpROMV7ZwBuO2ZM2lZUZMUu6L21mRz33e6zMRS28BNZy8t4ze22Kf8hqnXN0OjJB8gyJT43KEjCYWt0TNPvVwHghG0wQcTKF2pG95jYYO-/s320/Sample+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-10147950688714110812014-12-04T10:45:00.000+00:002014-12-04T10:45:00.984+00:00Understanding pattern instructions FRONT and BACK of the knitted fabricThere are lots of areas within a pattern where confusion can arise when describing how to do something. When knitting a garment you will often have a Front and a Back but the words FRONT and BACK are also used when explaining how to work a particular stitch or technique e.g.<br />
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'With the yarn at the front' or 'take the yarn to the back'</div>
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When describing how to move the yarn or to place the needle point, the FRONT is the side of the fabric nearest you regardless of whether it is the Right or Wrong Side facing you at the time, and therefore the BACK is the side away from you. </div>
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For example the instructions for working one method of making a chain selvedge is;</div>
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'<i>Knit 1 through the back loop, work to the last stitch, slip the last stitch purl wise with the yarn at front</i>'</div>
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The instruction at the beginning of the sentence - <i>knit 1 through the back loop</i> - is fairly easy to understand. You put the point of the right needle through the centre of the stitch from right to left so it passes in front of the back half of the first stitch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7VvqvXZJ6l1BaN2CE6JW9k3a9L-2iAAFPDauT97KadqOHzKPcg13yhKKlgtDfa6NDJu3wsVSJSRVfG_ok3yUGwLSnLFE6bFNhdQUPRvjUkcD0LaHykYdUZa3BZ21rsSBo7W6_trUATy4/s1600/1+k1tbl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7VvqvXZJ6l1BaN2CE6JW9k3a9L-2iAAFPDauT97KadqOHzKPcg13yhKKlgtDfa6NDJu3wsVSJSRVfG_ok3yUGwLSnLFE6bFNhdQUPRvjUkcD0LaHykYdUZa3BZ21rsSBo7W6_trUATy4/s1600/1+k1tbl.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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'<i>Slip the last stitch purl wise with the yarn at front</i>' - means you have to think about the position of the working yarn before you slip the last stitch purl wise. If you have been working a row of knit stitches the yarn is at the BACK of the fabric i.e. the side of the knitting away from you so you need to bring it forward between the needles before slipping the last stitch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdX5QXxi_IotqHnRdzhhoYm2Tslq6jJlCieDMgzr3Jlwx8Yl-8LQwMzw1FMXCWdd0mneInhWTzUnc1n-DZvPiVxoB-abaFtvptPSIk_uIOw7WjlKWK_sOKcTE-b6xI0fSrPzgLzb9e21aB/s1600/2+yarn+in+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdX5QXxi_IotqHnRdzhhoYm2Tslq6jJlCieDMgzr3Jlwx8Yl-8LQwMzw1FMXCWdd0mneInhWTzUnc1n-DZvPiVxoB-abaFtvptPSIk_uIOw7WjlKWK_sOKcTE-b6xI0fSrPzgLzb9e21aB/s1600/2+yarn+in+front.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgJyyUSGfyOJQRkQWBTCW2kYqXCJiTGqC25wDkijbRsEoIwJSbTD9x1K284S2lAZFG-bT401ct-mTnhd6iGscy161NWBHN3rc4RGcmPgYKcGmbX_P7SYaEx8c82sAjZbpO0kkRvRLeYQl/s1600/3+slip+1+purlwise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgJyyUSGfyOJQRkQWBTCW2kYqXCJiTGqC25wDkijbRsEoIwJSbTD9x1K284S2lAZFG-bT401ct-mTnhd6iGscy161NWBHN3rc4RGcmPgYKcGmbX_P7SYaEx8c82sAjZbpO0kkRvRLeYQl/s1600/3+slip+1+purlwise.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you have been working a row of purl stitches the yarn is already at the FRONT so you just need to slip the last stitch.</div>
fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-38028321045424874572014-10-23T13:52:00.000+01:002014-10-23T13:52:07.413+01:00Knit 1 Purl 1 Rib Neckband for a V-necklineI have just uploaded a new demo to my <a href="http://youtu.be/owIjngjBTPY" target="_blank">YouTube channel</a> showing you how to knit a mitred v-neckband in knit 1 purl 1 rib using a centre double decrease. In my last post I wrote about picking up stitches for a round neckband so I have not demonstrated the picking up in this video but if you what my 'Finishing a Round Neckline' video you will see how I prefer to pick up stitches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK0VGKTWd3WpH9iGAOMB_tayQgzP9-Vsq9V4ZVJ3FwWJDfUD2nB6ALc9EX9oH3xDP8crNj1yQlM1IJIACRt-_bMPy3yWQzDdB8it-zNA4Om7sTEd5MO1ECvtpB3jFgiPGJ23_lkjQdEQk0/s1600/V+neckband+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK0VGKTWd3WpH9iGAOMB_tayQgzP9-Vsq9V4ZVJ3FwWJDfUD2nB6ALc9EX9oH3xDP8crNj1yQlM1IJIACRt-_bMPy3yWQzDdB8it-zNA4Om7sTEd5MO1ECvtpB3jFgiPGJ23_lkjQdEQk0/s1600/V+neckband+small.jpg" /></a></div>
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When I am knitting a V-neckline, if possible I will slip the centre stitch at the bottom of the neckline onto a stitch holder and then I work by decreases 2 stitches in from the edge with paired decreases. When knitting the left hand side of the neckline (where the decrease is at the end of the row) I work to the last 4sts, knit 2 together and knit 2. When knitting the right hand side of the neckline (where the decrease is at the beginning of the row) I knit 2 and then work a left leaning decrease which could be ssk or sl 1, k1, psso, and then work the rest of the row. On wrong side rows I purl 3 over the 2 edge stitches and the decrease to give a column of stocking stitch either side of the neckline even if the rest of the garment is in a stitch pattern.<br />
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I also often work the first 2 decreases only, 2 rows apart and then complete the remaining decreases according to the intervals given in the pattern e.g. decrease every 4th or 6th row. The reason for working the first 2 decreases close together is that this will give you a slightly wider shape at the v-point of the neckline. You can find sometimes that the neckband doesn't fit into the space at the v-point very well.<br />
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There are a number of ways to finish a v-neckline but one of the most common neckbands is a knit 1, purl 1 ribbed band. This type of band required decreases to be worked at the v-point. When I work this type of neckband I prefer to use a centre double decrease to give a neat mitred finish at the v-point.<br />
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In my post on picking up stitches around a round neckline I talked a bit about the rate of pick up i.e. how many stitches to how many rows to get a good finish. Picking up along a v-neckline you are picking up along a diagonal line which is longer than the same number of rows vertically. If I pick up 3 stitches for 4 rows which I would normally do for a straight vertical edge the neckband may look okay but the v-point will probably be pulled up. As the diagonal line is longer it is necessary to pick up more stitches so I usually work on a ratio of 5 stitches to 6 rows. You can pick up 1 stitch for every row but you may find this is too many stitches.<br />
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Picking up stitches on a v-neckline I would start at the top of the left front neckline/shoulder and with the Right Side facing me pick up 5 stitches for every 6 rows down the neck edge. When possible I put my centre stitch onto a stitch holder at the start of the neck shaping so I would knit this stitch but keep the stitch marker in the stitch as I need to know where this stitch is when working the neckband. I also take a note of the number of stitches I picked up down this edge. After knitting the centre stitch I pick up the same number of stitches (at the same ratio) up the right hand side of the neckline.<br />
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Once you have picked up all the stitches you have a choice. You can knit 1 row to give a garter stitch edge to your neckband which will sit back over your pick up row, or you can go straight into the knit 1, purl 1 rib. If you are going to work in rib it is important to get the rib correctly centred. The marked stitch at the v-point of the neckline must be a knit stitch on the Right Side of the fabric. With the Wrong Side facing you (which will be the first row), find the marked stitch which will be a purl on the Wrong Side. Having found the stitch you can now work back to the beginning of the row counting p1, k1, to work out what stitch you need to start knitting the band correctly.<br />
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Work one row of rib over all the stitches (making sure the marked stitch is purled on this Wrong Side row). I work the mitred decrease on Right Side rows only. The next row is a Right Side row. Work in rib to 1 stitch before the marked stitch as shown in the image below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSE-1L_KrG_ZhkzYfA8IZTgQx3bM2fITgqTBmTdUpfByaQbFC80T-WfNB-QeChijY43gOekPEDyKLIo4i2b9cUWN6trnbKaYMxKWLkICpCFcIH53f1aCtBMhPjT-10_vdtlYFUSY90Ggx/s1600/10+v+neck+step+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzSE-1L_KrG_ZhkzYfA8IZTgQx3bM2fITgqTBmTdUpfByaQbFC80T-WfNB-QeChijY43gOekPEDyKLIo4i2b9cUWN6trnbKaYMxKWLkICpCFcIH53f1aCtBMhPjT-10_vdtlYFUSY90Ggx/s1600/10+v+neck+step+1.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The centre double decrease is a knit decrease (even if the next stitch is a purl stitch) and is worked over the next 3 stitches as follows, </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeWlKhJMHlCjKp1F_2ho2LzORLeOKELQ-u4ONIHZ-IFoHH1PaSJF1To9bRU3LXGIEdrDH8yjSO7ht5oEE9uHZfvyVW-y8H5_KoU7lcDoLy3z2qw_zvt-gXaZlkHIIgT0z0mFM9BzsCcShc/s1600/11+v+neck+step+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeWlKhJMHlCjKp1F_2ho2LzORLeOKELQ-u4ONIHZ-IFoHH1PaSJF1To9bRU3LXGIEdrDH8yjSO7ht5oEE9uHZfvyVW-y8H5_KoU7lcDoLy3z2qw_zvt-gXaZlkHIIgT0z0mFM9BzsCcShc/s1600/11+v+neck+step+2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Slip the next 2 stitches together to the right needle (as if you were going to work k2tog)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvfcTdbKueMKZic9rXTnbfOHePX1WI00dK2Cz75wnZSL3I7w18pgT60KQHcaPK5Laow1TyBW8uEIwkR5xNV7vIoZFANLXUqK5d-FF79-0pamoXFJENCsSEo3iGJe0CwbgAJuKl0xxVPSH/s1600/12+v+neck+step+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvfcTdbKueMKZic9rXTnbfOHePX1WI00dK2Cz75wnZSL3I7w18pgT60KQHcaPK5Laow1TyBW8uEIwkR5xNV7vIoZFANLXUqK5d-FF79-0pamoXFJENCsSEo3iGJe0CwbgAJuKl0xxVPSH/s1600/12+v+neck+step+3.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Knit the next stitch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1nj0hH5pTWn-69z3Z4BNafsjF-0MnmqEFJzk3NvHOKkMvivxsGn7TFGgZ97DFEXi2nnuasOxjs36LZOunSro008D4CoGSCr-_6Ut23Ww76L6ATmPPeICpWS7aqr14Jf7udE8Tq941r7nB/s1600/13+v+neck+step+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1nj0hH5pTWn-69z3Z4BNafsjF-0MnmqEFJzk3NvHOKkMvivxsGn7TFGgZ97DFEXi2nnuasOxjs36LZOunSro008D4CoGSCr-_6Ut23Ww76L6ATmPPeICpWS7aqr14Jf7udE8Tq941r7nB/s1600/13+v+neck+step+4.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Using the point of the left needle pass the 2 slipped stitches over together. <b>NB</b> they must be passed over the knit stitch together NOT one at a time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMAr3VUrkFmc4YHxF9T1EQ9Fm-kMDo1cLSyPy8cA6-EZoNTwAT68F2lki06tU4WJHkzCOL6JpVDenVcyxNXNw2cBY5gowRc-dxSJf-IuZs1yCRHmH41_Ts03JwXbVZxhIfV1oo4Mrnhxd3/s1600/14+v+neck+step+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMAr3VUrkFmc4YHxF9T1EQ9Fm-kMDo1cLSyPy8cA6-EZoNTwAT68F2lki06tU4WJHkzCOL6JpVDenVcyxNXNw2cBY5gowRc-dxSJf-IuZs1yCRHmH41_Ts03JwXbVZxhIfV1oo4Mrnhxd3/s1600/14+v+neck+step+5.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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By passing the 2 stitches over together you keep the centre stitch at the front of the decrease giving a vertical line of knit stitches with the decreased stitch either side disappearing behind this stitch.</div>
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After working the decrease continue in the rib pattern already set. On Wrong Side rows you MUST purl the marked stitch. On some Wrong Side rows you will have 3 purl stitches together but on alternate Wrong Side rows you will have knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.</div>
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An average neckband is about 8 rows. I usually cast off in rib on a Right Side row so that when I get to 1 stitch before the marked stitch, I work the centre double decrease and then cast off the previous stitch and continue with the rest of the cast off. This helps to keep the v-point neat and tight.</div>
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I hope that helps any of you who find it difficult to achieve a neat finish on your v-necklines.</div>
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<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-71645356916083132222014-09-30T17:42:00.000+01:002014-09-30T17:42:03.497+01:00Picking up stitches for the Neckband on a Round NecklineIn my last post I explained how I knitted a round neckline to make it as easy as possible to pick up the stitches for the neckband and achieve a neat clean finish. In this post I will show you how I pick up stitches around this neckline for the neckband.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPfbuHGodB9vzZKTm5A2XXpZZ5pScoUzFzDY82TT9WG5uu96GmzxjSjWKMahmhQtwAqhqgFYg5GF0pm6PA6WBcikMWVbhDDJFjH2VSvAHbp2PWrHR5YNlHmoRpdz0Se1GmOukT2VC8ezC/s1600/3+round+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPfbuHGodB9vzZKTm5A2XXpZZ5pScoUzFzDY82TT9WG5uu96GmzxjSjWKMahmhQtwAqhqgFYg5GF0pm6PA6WBcikMWVbhDDJFjH2VSvAHbp2PWrHR5YNlHmoRpdz0Se1GmOukT2VC8ezC/s1600/3+round+neckline.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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This was the picture of the finished sample neckline from my previous blog. The stitches at the start of the neckline shaping are on a stitch holder and the decreases for the shaped section are worked 2 stitches in from the neck edge on each side. The neckline is finished with a section of straight knitting. It is important to be able to identify these different sections as you need to pick up stitches at different rates in the different sections.</div>
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The stitches on a stitch holder need to be slipped back onto a needle. It can be helpful to place a locking stitch marker in the edge opposite the top most decrease to remind you where the shaped section is. When picking up stitches in the straight section at the top I would pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows. However in the shaped section the diagonal line created by the shaping means you need to pick up more stitches in this section and I usually pick up 1 stitch for every row here.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpKNxS30cC_HWADGuV_qzkElmVEMXZ9ons4HtyalU_w4-0QThr4nXW2PPZEbtTPNSu1Bc9QoDqzDvPsPJTtJHRccH_2bSyOx8sYmDt6WpQl5Bj4itwXHPvMIpPddbZzLXkt4NgnUG9ixZs/s1600/2+start+point.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpKNxS30cC_HWADGuV_qzkElmVEMXZ9ons4HtyalU_w4-0QThr4nXW2PPZEbtTPNSu1Bc9QoDqzDvPsPJTtJHRccH_2bSyOx8sYmDt6WpQl5Bj4itwXHPvMIpPddbZzLXkt4NgnUG9ixZs/s1600/2+start+point.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Start the pick up by holding the neckline in your left hand, starting at the top of the left hand edge of the neckline. When I pick up stitches I work between the edge stitch and the next stitch in, where I am pointing with my needle in the image above.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uibez4kN3urvk1g0Xe4Pupud9jllOes2zyq03qcgllcmwCRrXyDDilVHZtd1wg1t-8IeT3upi80zSyBj6IU5cSb0Lp4YateYgKgfMH-GN_Kcl7YyxeqzSy9CNr1DU3k3KDbGv37R0Kvg/s1600/3+through+below+1+stitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uibez4kN3urvk1g0Xe4Pupud9jllOes2zyq03qcgllcmwCRrXyDDilVHZtd1wg1t-8IeT3upi80zSyBj6IU5cSb0Lp4YateYgKgfMH-GN_Kcl7YyxeqzSy9CNr1DU3k3KDbGv37R0Kvg/s1600/3+through+below+1+stitch.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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It is usual to knit the neckband on a smaller needle than is used for the main body of the knitting and this also makes it easier to pick up stitches using a smaller size needle. Holding a knitting needle in my right hand and the neckline in my left hand I push the point of the needle through the knitted fabric between the edge stitch and next stitch in.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpZ0T255oF5i67a57lvq6hDQgkPxSACmqd-Xn0DLg7S_Xa_q1F71A3iRQ4NyQeb-FAW6Z4N6amkvwlY_iSspHhnP6LQ3NGfoHyp7T6nGm4HbABRSCmJ52Abv8SNGX-h7UJQOVSRPHNiEb/s1600/4+make+1+stitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpZ0T255oF5i67a57lvq6hDQgkPxSACmqd-Xn0DLg7S_Xa_q1F71A3iRQ4NyQeb-FAW6Z4N6amkvwlY_iSspHhnP6LQ3NGfoHyp7T6nGm4HbABRSCmJ52Abv8SNGX-h7UJQOVSRPHNiEb/s1600/4+make+1+stitch.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I take the knitting yarn around the point of the needle (in this case I am using a contrast yellow yarn) and pull a new loop through to the front of the fabric. I repeat this process in the next 2 rows to pick up 2 more stitches.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphD4w8-TLVd9sy_kBHOP0kdiINbxJItsAL_EvjSLat768_Sks3i8I2n0hzWcnmDrFrlomrWzOIrVGXe1X3XNPMbtrKE3qCrd77k7lcnlrLb8mDknK_9pARre50O-7r_coOrnVdEnjgV5W/s1600/5+3sts+to+4+rows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgphD4w8-TLVd9sy_kBHOP0kdiINbxJItsAL_EvjSLat768_Sks3i8I2n0hzWcnmDrFrlomrWzOIrVGXe1X3XNPMbtrKE3qCrd77k7lcnlrLb8mDknK_9pARre50O-7r_coOrnVdEnjgV5W/s1600/5+3sts+to+4+rows.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once I have picked up 3 stitches, I miss one row from the neckline (3 stitches to 4 rows) and then pick up another stitch in each of the next 3 rows. The image above shows the first 3stitches and then 2 strands pushed together, the 4th row, before the next stitch is picked up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivjKz7QF0UlmUzjkNP3p5SXETjhAGYw-zE1aXlnrxROFy3EnBtrRvt0_tqX9Q3SG0ZYrw_NPx1P9NXIpIzav62SoUHvHL892a0angBWlrsopksoJ0H2E73pEZbIbRboVm-q4XgMc_qyQI1/s1600/6+picked+up+sts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivjKz7QF0UlmUzjkNP3p5SXETjhAGYw-zE1aXlnrxROFy3EnBtrRvt0_tqX9Q3SG0ZYrw_NPx1P9NXIpIzav62SoUHvHL892a0angBWlrsopksoJ0H2E73pEZbIbRboVm-q4XgMc_qyQI1/s1600/6+picked+up+sts.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once I have got to the start of the shaped section I pick up 1 stitch for every row. The image above shows the stitches picked up down one side of the neckline. It is important to make a note of how many stitches you picked up down the straight section and then how may stitches you picked up down the shaped section so that when you come to picking up the stitches on the opposite side you have the same number of stitches in each section.</div>
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One of the main problems a lot of knitters experience when picking up stitches for a neckband is that a hole appears between the stitches which have been shaped and the stitches on a stitch holder. To avoid this hole appearing I pick up the strand between the stitches forming the neckline and the stitches on a stitch holder as indicated in the image below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF45WrWnXkw_s6AeYUa4DGPW79rgw4R-3MJ3iUsnxI9TnW58LJhaYJytPnszT92g5zpizqiGZ0Nqk4gcaIKEPCYvKMAZBI87Voz08Cyku9ZHQpKF-mRYhi17EKXv_tzHZ5q6_6eJ0hZSyj/s1600/7+pick+up+thread.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF45WrWnXkw_s6AeYUa4DGPW79rgw4R-3MJ3iUsnxI9TnW58LJhaYJytPnszT92g5zpizqiGZ0Nqk4gcaIKEPCYvKMAZBI87Voz08Cyku9ZHQpKF-mRYhi17EKXv_tzHZ5q6_6eJ0hZSyj/s1600/7+pick+up+thread.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Having picked up this strand onto the left needle point I knit into the back of the loop to make a new stitch and twist it shut to close any hole that might have formed. I have made a stitch, but this extra stitch can be decreased away in the next row if you feel you don't want it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzv0e_5ceL0Pjf0SeI_-wL3wP3JHJPftJuq1xMyB53WawyOZbO8KSSRgfCjJcune-MMzWlSfxto7Vwqrdw07bbSOILWl5Y3jxeIMcK-I2uc0vcw4dNFGuQCF2U-A1x8ZonrSb1mW_u6J44/s1600/8+knit+through+back+loop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzv0e_5ceL0Pjf0SeI_-wL3wP3JHJPftJuq1xMyB53WawyOZbO8KSSRgfCjJcune-MMzWlSfxto7Vwqrdw07bbSOILWl5Y3jxeIMcK-I2uc0vcw4dNFGuQCF2U-A1x8ZonrSb1mW_u6J44/s1600/8+knit+through+back+loop.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Having made a stitch to fill the hole I then continue working across the stitches that were on a stitch holder. Some patterns will tell you to cast off the stitches at the bottom of the neckline shaping but with a round neckline, which is often quite close fitting, I prefer to slip the stitches onto a stitch holder to keep the neckline as flexible as possible.<br />
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Once I have knitted all the stitches from the stitch holder I pick up the strand between the stitch holder stitches and the shaped neckline and make a new stitch, and then continue to pick up stitches along the shaped section and then the straight section at the same rates as I did on the first side of the neckline.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEhDnlx-f_y16GYDL19-LubmpN0_nu-PscHSyXhz_lWusqM96JShUVfZxlHR0EtmkKLOP7fvbiSKqX4akU6HVdEfJFYEA7FmpS-qQDdpgtGIneQ40PaT5kHwD8tz21JCkV4fmNfNHRyzqb/s1600/9+all+sts+picked+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEhDnlx-f_y16GYDL19-LubmpN0_nu-PscHSyXhz_lWusqM96JShUVfZxlHR0EtmkKLOP7fvbiSKqX4akU6HVdEfJFYEA7FmpS-qQDdpgtGIneQ40PaT5kHwD8tz21JCkV4fmNfNHRyzqb/s1600/9+all+sts+picked+up.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once all the stitches have been picked up you should have a smooth, balanced neckline join. It is important when picking up stitches on the second side of the neckline to make sure you are working along the same channel of knitting as you did on the first side. </div>
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You can go straight into the neckband stitch pattern e.g. a knit 2 purl 2 rib after picking up the stitches or you can knit one row before starting the neckband pattern. Working a knit row gives a garter ridge detail that 'sits down' over the picked up row and can hide any minor irregularities and also can allow you to adjust the number of stitches at this point if you feel it is necessary. If you go straight into a rib pattern you need to work out what stitch you need to start with at the beginning of a Wrong Side row in order to have the rib pattern centred over the centre front of the neckband.</div>
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I have also made a demo film of how to pick up stitches for a round neckline finish which you can see <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpaXxB1dqWI" target="_blank">on the Fiona Morris Designs YouTube channel</a></div>
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In this explanation I have shown you how to judge picking up stitches according to what you have knitted. Some knitters do not feel confident about picking up a different number of stitches to those given in a pattern. If that is the case I would suggest you divide your neckline into equal sections and place locking stitch markers or split pin markers through your knitting to mark of each section. Now divide the number of stitches you have to pick up by the number of sections you have marked. Working 1 stitch in from the edge as previously explained, pick up the number of stitches you have worked out in each section to get an even spread of stitches that are the same number as quoted in the pattern.<br />
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I hope this explanation and demo help with achieving perfect neckline finishes in the future.<br />
<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-69006603807007689472014-08-04T16:02:00.000+01:002014-08-04T16:02:02.241+01:00Knitting a Round NecklineI've just come back from teaching a weekend course on Finishing Techniques at <a href="http://farncombecourses.co.uk/" target="_blank">Farncombe Estate</a> near Broadway and it came to my notice yet again the lack of information provided in commercial patterns when it comes to shaping the neckline. Most commercial patterns will say something like;<br />
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'Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row 8 times'<br />
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but they don't generally give any instructions about what method of decrease to use or where to place the decrease i.e. on the edge or a stitch or two in from the edge. They also often tell the knitted to cast off a block of stitches at the bottom of the Front neck shaping rather than putting the stitches on a stitch holder.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj17HP5NHTx7QOQ2q-ogf_IyP9puUZ1maxMty5S9yaB0_4_ct_ZlHGhCdNbJsWIcISXzRBG8sVAsDL1B8DU6DX1TJV3SEoB-6bp8gH9c0fuPCjeWsaTaraTxrYkW6cpY-ROR7S3ZbS5-FwL/s1600/1+round+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj17HP5NHTx7QOQ2q-ogf_IyP9puUZ1maxMty5S9yaB0_4_ct_ZlHGhCdNbJsWIcISXzRBG8sVAsDL1B8DU6DX1TJV3SEoB-6bp8gH9c0fuPCjeWsaTaraTxrYkW6cpY-ROR7S3ZbS5-FwL/s1600/1+round+neckline.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The picture above is an example of how many knitters will shape a round neckline when they are given a minimal amount of information in the pattern. The stitches at the centre bottom of the Front neck have been cast off and the decreases have been worked as 'knit 2 together (k2tog)' on the neck edge on both sides of the neckline. As a result the neckline has very little flexibility and the decreases on the edge of the neckline make it very difficult to pick up stitches neatly for the neckband.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL902lATam0UISNSKA4tw7y62ORXfORyBQcZGn2-vt9B6LbSMSEFm3IgZdbw-YPH56CnOinHQaCFZ4UkPHIvn16mjojD-XqFprXUHNAlzzXMX2HDNmzOuHu3ixmoaT9ayPDkyNZtcbo1F3/s1600/2+round+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL902lATam0UISNSKA4tw7y62ORXfORyBQcZGn2-vt9B6LbSMSEFm3IgZdbw-YPH56CnOinHQaCFZ4UkPHIvn16mjojD-XqFprXUHNAlzzXMX2HDNmzOuHu3ixmoaT9ayPDkyNZtcbo1F3/s1600/2+round+neckline.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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In this second sample the bottom of the neckline has been cast off again but the decreases have been worked 2 stitches in from the edge. This does make the edge much easier to pick up stitches through, but in this sample the same method of decrease has been used on both sides of the neckline shaping i.e. k2tog. Looking at the sample the right hand neckline edge has a 'fully fashioned' finish. The k2tog decrease leans towards the right which is in the same direction as the edge is being decreased. As a result it gives a clear column of stitches leaning to the right - following the shape of the neckline.</div>
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The left hand side of the neckline (as you look at it) has been shaped using the same right leaning decrease i.e. k2tog. The decrease is worked 2 stitches in from the edge so the neckline edge is still smooth for picking up stitches for the neckband, but the knitted fabric does not have the same smooth line of stitches following the direction of the neckline shaping. It does not mirror the other side of the neckline. In order to mirror the neckline shaping you need to use a left leaning decrease such as 'slip 1 knit 1 pass slipped stitch over (skpo)'.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7axWyrB-D6qDJ7-iVbKo8c2_7FtRaaoOoHBHmtb70jLl_7AHiCdmuWQnYXABIx_Nyh3gojjKH7AW5U2qcYka2iQfbmegxMm_rtT8pHbBgYhWrIi4oobUbZaW5_qo-l0D-RgABl944sOsP/s1600/3+round+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7axWyrB-D6qDJ7-iVbKo8c2_7FtRaaoOoHBHmtb70jLl_7AHiCdmuWQnYXABIx_Nyh3gojjKH7AW5U2qcYka2iQfbmegxMm_rtT8pHbBgYhWrIi4oobUbZaW5_qo-l0D-RgABl944sOsP/s1600/3+round+neckline.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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This 3rd picture shows how I would work a round neckline. I prefer to put the centre section of stitches onto a stitch holder rather than casting them off as this helps to retain the flexibility in the neckline. If the round neckline is quite open and deep like a scoop neckline it is not so important to keep the stitches from the bottom of the neckline and the back neckline on stitch holders, but if the garment has quite a close fitting neckline, the knitting needs to be able to stretch to fit over the wearer's head.<br />
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For the shaped section of the neckline (the decreases,) I have used a k2tog decrease on the right hand side (as the sample faces you) and a skpo on the left hand side. Both decreases are worked 2 stitches in from the edge. As a result the edge of the neckline is smooth making it very much easier to pick up stitches through the edge for the neckband and I personally like the 'fully fashioned' finish that is achieved by working 2 stitches in from the edge of the knitting.<br />
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The images below show a close-up of the round neckline on 2 different garments. Both garments are knitted in stocking stitch, one with a k2, p2 rib and the other with a k1, p1 rib, but both with close fitting necklines. Due to the way the neckline has been shaped it was much easier to pick up and knit a very neatly finished neckband.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDN5aibjbepc1NWTBlXK9ap1YScrLg6EmilxS38HkS4HE4oXxiXdywFWt4YuGVWZ6K6B7tGf_1pACG60V4iURwCJGA7W8BDBUoYdiwlf27r7UQ_xX5bOtRbv2YSnrQn3Pbdj_NnrR34hEM/s1600/4+round+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDN5aibjbepc1NWTBlXK9ap1YScrLg6EmilxS38HkS4HE4oXxiXdywFWt4YuGVWZ6K6B7tGf_1pACG60V4iURwCJGA7W8BDBUoYdiwlf27r7UQ_xX5bOtRbv2YSnrQn3Pbdj_NnrR34hEM/s1600/4+round+neckline.jpg" height="290" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQgmJ_KFgmDk_e444gVU0KKWoKcPowdTYx6pktHK4TRBE5I5pD-rFH8n_Y_7clQM_pJ8fbi_UTt80kI6eMqHMpiRII5ch2I8lRwTGvChPj-9pCGQYTbG86iv3rJsfiqhDJWgKbwiLYZ7W/s1600/5+round+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWQgmJ_KFgmDk_e444gVU0KKWoKcPowdTYx6pktHK4TRBE5I5pD-rFH8n_Y_7clQM_pJ8fbi_UTt80kI6eMqHMpiRII5ch2I8lRwTGvChPj-9pCGQYTbG86iv3rJsfiqhDJWgKbwiLYZ7W/s1600/5+round+neckline.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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These two examples show the neckline shaping on a stocking stitch garment. I would still use this method of shaping i.e. the decreases worked at least 1 or 2 stitches in from the edge, even when knitting different stitch patterns as it makes the neckline much easier to finish neatly and I like the detail it adds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eBda2BXJmzWU9B5cBtfSxKzIbNzGQ1kp55lrdxx3A7ycpIx2SQJ0ghLdINg8WxjGOI2VJOuvWmLfsRHoZ3Dwx0jdIixsExRaSxhj9ofr1dihVt25msS9VtTbN0cY3_HtGo28sYonKJp_/s1600/6+neckline+fully+fashioned.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eBda2BXJmzWU9B5cBtfSxKzIbNzGQ1kp55lrdxx3A7ycpIx2SQJ0ghLdINg8WxjGOI2VJOuvWmLfsRHoZ3Dwx0jdIixsExRaSxhj9ofr1dihVt25msS9VtTbN0cY3_HtGo28sYonKJp_/s1600/6+neckline+fully+fashioned.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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This last picture is a v-neckline but it shows how the fully fashioned decreases have been worked within a stitch pattern. There is a 2 stitch wide column of stitches either side of the neckline just inside the garter stitch neckband.<br />
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To work fully fashioned decreases to shape the Left Front neckline (the right had side when looking at the pictures) work to the last 4sts, k2tog, k2.<br />
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To work fully fashioned decreases to shape the Right Front neckline (the left hand side looking at the picture) k2, skpo, work to the end of the row.<br />
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I would also work fully fashioned shaping at the armhole edges, the sleeve cap of a set-in sleeve garment and the raglan seams on that style of garment.<br />
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I hope this 'article' gives some of you the confidence to realise you do not have to follow a pattern word for work. The pattern will tell you how many times you need to work the decreases but you can decide where exactly you are going to work those decreases i.e. 1 or 2 stitches in from the edge of the knitting and what method of decrease you want to use.fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-26823749044276274272014-05-12T18:44:00.000+01:002014-05-12T18:45:51.737+01:00Decreasing on then purl side of the fabric to match the knit sideI recently wrote about different methods of decreasing on the knit side of stocking stitch fabric and explained why you may want to use different methods of decreasing particularly when shaping areas of knitting e.g. armholes and necklines.<br />
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When I write patterns for hand knitting I usually try to make sure that the decreases are worked on the knit side (right side) of the fabric i.e. even numbers of rows between decreases. However sometimes it is necessary to work shaping decreases every row for several rows which means having to decrease on the purl side as well as the knit side of the fabric. When you look at the purl side of a piece of stocking stitch which includes decreases, the decreases are not very visible but on the knit side the direction of the decrease is very visible. As a result it is necessary to work the decreases on the purl side of the fabric that will lean in the same direction as the knit decrease below or above it.<br />
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There are generally not as many variations of purl decreases in common use as there are knit decreases and in this post I am looking at the 3 most common methods of working single decreases on the purl side of the fabric.<br />
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<b>Purl 2 together</b> (p2tog) - right leaning decrease on the knit side<br />
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This is probably the easiest purl decrease to work as you purl 2 stitches together. When viewed from the knit side of the fabric this decrease gives a right sloping decrease so it matches the knit 2 together (k2tog).</div>
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<b>Purl 2 together through the back loop</b> (p2togtbl) - left leaning decrease on the knit side</div>
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This decrease is a bit more fiddly to complete. I find when I am working p2togtbl the first thing I do is to loosen the two stitches that are to be worked together by putting my right needle through the 2 stitches as if to work a p2tog.</div>
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Once I take the right needle out of these 2 stitches again I try to 'pinch' the knitting to keep the loops as open as possible so that I can then get into the same 2 stitches but this time trough the back loops.</div>
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Once the right needles in place through the back loops the 2 stitches can be purled together.</div>
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This decrease will give a left leaning slant on the knit side of the fabric so is often used to match the slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (skpo) decrease. The stitches are knitted through the back loop which results in them being twisted at the base of the stitch.</div>
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<b>Slip slip purl</b> (ssp) - left leaning decrease on the knit side</div>
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This purl decrease is used much more frequently in America as it is the purl decrease to match the ssk decrease on the knit side.</div>
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Slip the next stitch knitwise to the right needle.</div>
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Slip the 2nd stitch knitwise to the right needle.</div>
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Slip both slipped stitches back to the left needle.</div>
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Purl the 2 together through the back loop.</div>
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Although this decrease is very similar to the p2togtbl and needs a couple of extra steps it does give a better finish on the knit side of the fabric as the stitches are not twisted.</div>
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The finished sample above shows how the 3 methods of decreasing look on the knit side of the fabric. Working from right to left across the sample, it starts with the ssp (left leaning) decrease, in the middle is the p2togtbl (left leaning) decrease and finishes with the p2tog (right leaning) decrease. As you can see the ssp decrease gives a much smoother line than the p2togtbl decrease.</div>
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<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-51211581688303101582014-03-29T15:12:00.000+00:002014-03-29T15:12:01.426+00:00Decreases on the knit side of the fabric; which one to use<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<b>Right Leaning Decreases</b></div>
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In my experience the decrease that most people learn
first is the Knit 2 together (k2tog) decrease. It is a fairly easy decrease to
work but a lot of knitters are not really aware of how it makes the knitting
look. When you work a k2tog decrease the second stitch lies on top of the first
stitch and when viewed from the knit side of the fabric will lean towards the
right. (<i>When viewed from the purl side the directional lean of decreases is not
that visible</i>)</div>
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Decreases can be worked at the very edge of the knitting
but generally I prefer to work decreases at least 1 or 2 stitches in from the
edge as this gives the knitted fabric a smoother edge for sewing up or picking up stitches. Working the k2tog decrease 2 stitches in from the end of a row will give
a column of 2 stitches leaning towards the right following the same direction of decrease as the actual edge The image below shows the
left hand end of a piece of stocking stitch where the k2tog decrease has been
worked 2 stitches in from the edge. </div>
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If you work the k2tog decrease at the beginning of a knit
row i.e. knit 2, k2tog, the decrease will still lean to the right although the
edge itself is decreasing towards the left. Working this decrease at the
beginning of a row will give a less defined edge as can be seen in the image below. </div>
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However there are occasions when decreasing like this gives a better result e.g. when decreasing in a Fair Isle pattern one stitch from the edge, the second stitch sits on top of the first stitch and helps to keep the continuity of the pattern.</div>
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There are other ways of working a right leaning decrease but as they involve a lot of moving of
stitches I have not found the need to work an alternative right leaning
decrease.</div>
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<b>Left Leaning Decreases</b></div>
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The k2tog decrease makes a very smooth right leaning
decrease but the left leaning decrease generally used in the UK does not give
as smooth a finish. The method used to work a left leaning decrease is, slip 1
(<i>knitwise</i>), knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (skpo or sl1, k1, psso). In
this decrease the first stitch sits on top of the second stitch and leans
toward the left when viewed from the knit side of the fabric.</div>
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Because this decrease does not look as smooth as the
k2tog decrease, knitters over the years have tried other methods of working a
left leaning decrease that more nearly matches the k2tog decrease. Barbara G
Walker came up with the slip slip knit (ssk) decrease which is generally used
in American patterns. For those of you less familiar with this method of
decrease you slip the next 2 stitches (<i>knitwise</i>) one at a time to the right
needle. Put the point of the left needle through these 2 slipped stitches (<i>from
left to right</i>) in front of the right needle and knit the 2 together.</div>
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You may ask ‘why not just work a knit 2 together through
the back loop’. This will also give you a left leaning decrease and is often
used in older Scottish patterns but by knitting through the back of the loop
you twist the stitches. Working an ssk decrease the stitches are re-orientated
on the needle so they are not twisted. The image below shows a sample where the
ssk decrease has been worked 2 stitches in from the beginning of a knit row.
This gives a column of 2 stitches leaning to the left, following the direction
of decrease and giving a smooth line of stitches for picking up along the edge
or seaming.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWLuHcKsZr8-TddqNzq1PT69v7SmASkZTvjb_4IK1m6ZVe06HGNwt9aNVO26AShdXRV5ZhUOr_klnWY52eWRUrBMQ4AbeBe2c6pvHfdn85KciwDDb1TFJQyOC7UM-psTqTW1VqynC1_Xr/s1600/11+ssk+beg+row.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWLuHcKsZr8-TddqNzq1PT69v7SmASkZTvjb_4IK1m6ZVe06HGNwt9aNVO26AShdXRV5ZhUOr_klnWY52eWRUrBMQ4AbeBe2c6pvHfdn85KciwDDb1TFJQyOC7UM-psTqTW1VqynC1_Xr/s1600/11+ssk+beg+row.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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As with the right leaning decrease it can also be worked
at the end of a row (<i>still 2 stitches in from the edge</i>) but this time the
decrease is leaning in the opposite direction to the decreasing edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1-JcnsxarmK7ClRiPTQveaRmWOYDgGj2kqmrN57DgVqm8VpQ-Y1bU-RbKTBWDIecJ-lglTZDIKCL0Ens_OigN_0R0knfNkB6l6lBLK75NEoPDTCg2gqwCCcRy6tk_iUMrtbwde52T5lo/s1600/12+ssk+end+row.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1-JcnsxarmK7ClRiPTQveaRmWOYDgGj2kqmrN57DgVqm8VpQ-Y1bU-RbKTBWDIecJ-lglTZDIKCL0Ens_OigN_0R0knfNkB6l6lBLK75NEoPDTCg2gqwCCcRy6tk_iUMrtbwde52T5lo/s1600/12+ssk+end+row.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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There is a variation on the ssk decrease that has been
developed in recent years. In the original ssk decrease the next 2 stitches are
slipped knitwise one at a time to the right needle. However if you slip the
first stitch knitwise but the <b>second
stitch purlwise</b> and then complete the decrease as before; the resulting left
leaning decrease is flatter than the original ssk decrease.</div>
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In the sample below I have worked 3 methods of left
leaning decrease, the right most decrease is skpo, followed by the original ssk
and then the alternate version of ssk. In the picture they may not look that
different but the left most decrease line gives the smoothest, flattest finish.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8pofUqAe5fVPuXqWXs1-EGQFQfVma_CsKgK886tj0F0qGH4988vY_QSRH9B_3S_784WduhVSU2Vtu7D3NuNtG-LF7MOQZ_4nYP2MR3U8oyw9cJaUSEHv7fAa5x4IR7XtVNqxFk8xZA3YW/s1600/17+left+leaning+decreases.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8pofUqAe5fVPuXqWXs1-EGQFQfVma_CsKgK886tj0F0qGH4988vY_QSRH9B_3S_784WduhVSU2Vtu7D3NuNtG-LF7MOQZ_4nYP2MR3U8oyw9cJaUSEHv7fAa5x4IR7XtVNqxFk8xZA3YW/s1600/17+left+leaning+decreases.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once you understand the visual impact of different decreases you can choose to use the best decrease for the finished result you are trying to achieve. I will write another post about working decreases on the purl side of the fabric and also about using decreases when shaping garments.</div>
fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-65070138373164804042013-07-22T18:08:00.001+01:002013-07-22T18:09:51.498+01:00Is it ever too hot to knit?I have to say that after the last few weeks of hot weather there have been times when I did think it was too hot to knit. It doesn't help that the commission I am currently working on is knitted in chunky weight yarn so I have only been able to work on it first think in the morning before it gets too hot. At other times i have been working on different projects which don't make me as hot while knitting.<br />
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Socks are always a good alternative in hot weather or as a project to carry around with you. I have several socks started, usually as the result of teaching a workshop. Quite often they stay in their 'just started' state for quite a while or if I finish the first sock, the second one can often take quite a while to complete.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJqChkA6G5-XVpF7qDddNg-gOuwWj4urINTvXDlcFN_PvT_IjbWJ6Z4Nstt8KpYZK8EkiCE8DyQVZCYMaeRQShKjXYYrb5ey2XFJ5J4tp_Q6broncSFwspOgPc9uHFWARhsVd88zbOYfS/s1600/20+bavarian+cable+sock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJqChkA6G5-XVpF7qDddNg-gOuwWj4urINTvXDlcFN_PvT_IjbWJ6Z4Nstt8KpYZK8EkiCE8DyQVZCYMaeRQShKjXYYrb5ey2XFJ5J4tp_Q6broncSFwspOgPc9uHFWARhsVd88zbOYfS/s320/20+bavarian+cable+sock.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2tUKApGzV2E3y1fdirh4JjHKSr-QhdlX_dnyz6JTHnpvtd__K2-2jNS6JLO9otD8Mmvtts15MNWZwC5_jF4DSs1nLOYlLLGqIfdKjmOgpO8aFDdY-Uw5iMgg4ZPDC1j-4p7p_-OS8khz/s1600/21+bavarian+cable+sock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2tUKApGzV2E3y1fdirh4JjHKSr-QhdlX_dnyz6JTHnpvtd__K2-2jNS6JLO9otD8Mmvtts15MNWZwC5_jF4DSs1nLOYlLLGqIfdKjmOgpO8aFDdY-Uw5iMgg4ZPDC1j-4p7p_-OS8khz/s320/21+bavarian+cable+sock.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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This sock is the second of a pair worked in my zigzag and cable pattern published in The Knitter issue 49. The first sock was knitted some time ago before I knitted the sample pair for the magazine so I thought it was about time I finished this second sock. I have been working on it, on and off for the last few months so I should set myself a goal to finish it before the end of the summer!<br />
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As well as knitting this sock I decided I needed to make myself a bolero to go with the dress I have bought for my son's wedding. I decided to re-knit my 'Kidsilk Bolero' pattern but as I wanted something that would be fairly cool I have knitted it in Uppingham Yarns 100% Bamboo yarn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0QiYFD3YL2pi61tJmir29DDvxOM8oFIEkJCPrv3KSAq_pJ9mWRgvWDlPXQ5Bndh0IOprbL0DIpQswz-pcFpMoyGb_RG5ZqDbshtNpuo5Dlmqz_BaGHHZfxf8G_-BNIPFeI7WWRZ4-okFF/s1600/17+kidsilk+bolero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0QiYFD3YL2pi61tJmir29DDvxOM8oFIEkJCPrv3KSAq_pJ9mWRgvWDlPXQ5Bndh0IOprbL0DIpQswz-pcFpMoyGb_RG5ZqDbshtNpuo5Dlmqz_BaGHHZfxf8G_-BNIPFeI7WWRZ4-okFF/s320/17+kidsilk+bolero.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am pleased with the way it has knitted up. If I get a reasonable photo of me wearing it at the wedding I will post it. The bamboo has a nice drape and is between a 4ply and DK in weight, I guess nearer the American Sport weight. I was able to match the stitch gauge although the row gauge didn't match exactly but it seems to have come out OK.<br />
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Another piece I have been working on, off and on since June is the 'Dreambird Shawl' pattern from Ravelry. it is a variation on the 'Wingspan' pattern and uses the 'swing knitting' method of keeping track of your short rows and the German method of working short rows which has made it an interesting knit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2J4ZNFmv22n4YWJK5G7ImXHJ1Fp3RraFA4ggzd5DVEx3rXKE3pHbcO6A7A09k-ICD_OjwDxaSnTLXiotA3dHAChBl2ZjOCnIOOh4hQFCtjwWuKSMuN5mUQJP5UFk6vbbYA10DZerwKE9/s1600/22+dreambird+shawl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2J4ZNFmv22n4YWJK5G7ImXHJ1Fp3RraFA4ggzd5DVEx3rXKE3pHbcO6A7A09k-ICD_OjwDxaSnTLXiotA3dHAChBl2ZjOCnIOOh4hQFCtjwWuKSMuN5mUQJP5UFk6vbbYA10DZerwKE9/s320/22+dreambird+shawl.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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People who know me well know I don't often knit from someone else's pattern but as this pattern is using several techniques in a different way I thought it was worth trying it as I am always interested in new ways of working in knitting.<br />
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The last small project I thought I could work on in this hot weather is knitting with wire and beads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgCmJ1WuAsDlgMo3uNerhSTvA4V30sou7DsohksW4RUVdanuBG05klzBRWqT_CJ8maaqLthzB4WvOEovH0pC0O2pgYUOFxCOP8tmofYQ-Kt03zHf0NCAwI1cSjh1m7SUlVWU2WL8_nLNP8/s1600/18+bead+and+wire+bracelet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgCmJ1WuAsDlgMo3uNerhSTvA4V30sou7DsohksW4RUVdanuBG05klzBRWqT_CJ8maaqLthzB4WvOEovH0pC0O2pgYUOFxCOP8tmofYQ-Kt03zHf0NCAwI1cSjh1m7SUlVWU2WL8_nLNP8/s320/18+bead+and+wire+bracelet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipHU_8QBwXt1fwlcXAKs-e46qTaQBcbS4yCfba0_Y_syQkDiH3xzyhMAMGA3CafH_baiLevNubwr3Ro60a7FjWRM6QK_FbDZA_XtsojFuPC_8ZGmfCC3DQVJzRe8huC2m1BUZfnPNAhByV/s1600/19+bead+and+wire+bracelet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipHU_8QBwXt1fwlcXAKs-e46qTaQBcbS4yCfba0_Y_syQkDiH3xzyhMAMGA3CafH_baiLevNubwr3Ro60a7FjWRM6QK_FbDZA_XtsojFuPC_8ZGmfCC3DQVJzRe8huC2m1BUZfnPNAhByV/s320/19+bead+and+wire+bracelet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I did start this project when teaching a wire and beads workshop earlier this year and thought this would be another good project to try and finish because it is small and knitted using wire which stays fairly cool (as long as you don't leave it in the sun). It is the same pattern as the lace and bead bracelet I designed for the bead knitting workshop at Unravel in February.<br />
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If I get any of these projects finished by the end of the summer I will post some more pictures. Let me know what you are knitting in this hot weather.fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-50293429727640843982013-04-02T16:47:00.001+01:002013-04-02T16:47:51.754+01:00Developing a Design IdeaA couple of months ago I had a crop jumper design published in Knitting magazine. The cable pattern on the garment was developed from photographs and sketches of ideas taken on one of the French Treats Knitting Holidays I taught on several years ago. Here is a picture of the finished garment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqwTQ6F7Cy1GCurHbYGqlolWVYVPtsRJo0uDHbzgfPk_HBPkFfYQlE73ZkUiVeIbAozGYr0r8nrxEEEtVIe5DyXZvPPE8ewstmuIQq4lm9Si4ShyrD0JfphPaAU_AQzIDXM1VGiyXBYUL/s1600/2+crop+jumper+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqwTQ6F7Cy1GCurHbYGqlolWVYVPtsRJo0uDHbzgfPk_HBPkFfYQlE73ZkUiVeIbAozGYr0r8nrxEEEtVIe5DyXZvPPE8ewstmuIQq4lm9Si4ShyrD0JfphPaAU_AQzIDXM1VGiyXBYUL/s320/2+crop+jumper+front.jpg" width="243" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieqhQlH1XV-Fbh7lQtwIqLCslXynO_ZcQlJ0xSAFHjoKCrbB4ACLgfo0tfy6mTZHTlQpro5rSL_nx1e6hyphenhyphenevoJmtNbJ-njMeVYv6uz5Pm9IMBxHFxfNl9gbm_qnmAswC0kI45fNuSw0Wf8/s1600/3+crop+jumper+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieqhQlH1XV-Fbh7lQtwIqLCslXynO_ZcQlJ0xSAFHjoKCrbB4ACLgfo0tfy6mTZHTlQpro5rSL_nx1e6hyphenhyphenevoJmtNbJ-njMeVYv6uz5Pm9IMBxHFxfNl9gbm_qnmAswC0kI45fNuSw0Wf8/s320/3+crop+jumper+back.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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Three years ago when I was teaching in France with Sasha Kegan I was teaching a workshop on cables and at the time I was asked to develop some cable patterns based on an Abbey we had visited the previous year. This was quite challenging as I didn't remember seeing anything that would obviously work into a cable pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lSHEu1G0oNNe_HKRGR8RDJnhoXoRv7DjbV2few0cXtEakaUBFNcSM3ZoIskb7M3t-OGQ3u_KcdHelNnD5YzZOhhn5QYEoZXyXdxIPNIF9gfu9znkoeAHPc7pq2q_yoWQvqkXDA79d-EJ/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lSHEu1G0oNNe_HKRGR8RDJnhoXoRv7DjbV2few0cXtEakaUBFNcSM3ZoIskb7M3t-OGQ3u_KcdHelNnD5YzZOhhn5QYEoZXyXdxIPNIF9gfu9znkoeAHPc7pq2q_yoWQvqkXDA79d-EJ/s320/5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The only image I could think of that might lend itself to being worked into some kind of cable was the ceiling in the cloisters at the Abbey. so I started doing some sketches and tracings from the pictures of the ceiling.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUran3IwiaXngcBZTPN-NzrFLKu5TKCp9Cs8mNcCmqyp4vgwZK2Qmd1K9DDJOQI6KI_wmjCUfQQZ1-UtPIMRCGsf6JmIKhFsD0pEVYFpsmAwePgS31JG_xZ1pcyo71hTKEwgkgSLJ0OqnT/s1600/9+arches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUran3IwiaXngcBZTPN-NzrFLKu5TKCp9Cs8mNcCmqyp4vgwZK2Qmd1K9DDJOQI6KI_wmjCUfQQZ1-UtPIMRCGsf6JmIKhFsD0pEVYFpsmAwePgS31JG_xZ1pcyo71hTKEwgkgSLJ0OqnT/s320/9+arches.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRLP9x4XK1CiHy81PddmSN4c6kSFEDD4opXYynIfdGs-PuMcKAOIYwDheVX3x53Lvppyxr4bPGyeX17CnY3Vj_CmP_VPUrLiX5eR5WBnEQYVdOwncUsgIQg0Mq44U0gguumFwG9vq8EL1/s1600/10+arches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrRLP9x4XK1CiHy81PddmSN4c6kSFEDD4opXYynIfdGs-PuMcKAOIYwDheVX3x53Lvppyxr4bPGyeX17CnY3Vj_CmP_VPUrLiX5eR5WBnEQYVdOwncUsgIQg0Mq44U0gguumFwG9vq8EL1/s320/10+arches.jpg" width="221" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8wUuv6n4FNheaujtSoPTV-P-933uoE7fWuEYfzvqK-JNoRpu3ywzt63zQkewZB_v4UaX7NP-P7rQtwGd_q6mi313TYVUWwCslqwlQrLwoKQ0IQHZ2WnHlWlEyGTM3l72pW_J4_gCFfZZ/s1600/11+arch+development.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx8wUuv6n4FNheaujtSoPTV-P-933uoE7fWuEYfzvqK-JNoRpu3ywzt63zQkewZB_v4UaX7NP-P7rQtwGd_q6mi313TYVUWwCslqwlQrLwoKQ0IQHZ2WnHlWlEyGTM3l72pW_J4_gCFfZZ/s320/11+arch+development.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0k5hVdRmQoaq375_vBtyp4G4wRAoiQwwi_yBXwqGmClRfbAJB6Rc2Aj_Kr3H2bbFUSKA86_Fcn24FSIxLJUsAWbNqsr6VTkVngdltsW_i9nz3d-MiOOqxxYLOQBYjbJf9utWEFr9aoiC0/s1600/12+arches+development.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0k5hVdRmQoaq375_vBtyp4G4wRAoiQwwi_yBXwqGmClRfbAJB6Rc2Aj_Kr3H2bbFUSKA86_Fcn24FSIxLJUsAWbNqsr6VTkVngdltsW_i9nz3d-MiOOqxxYLOQBYjbJf9utWEFr9aoiC0/s320/12+arches+development.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Playing around with these images, particularly the drawing on the right hand page of the image above did remind me a bit of some cable stitch patterns I had seen in one of my Japanese stitch library books. I went through the stitch library book and chose 2 stitch patterns to try knitting. I was also thinking about these stitch patterns being used in a cushion cover so knitted both at the same time with moss stitch between each pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrA2KFC0Xxuj05P_vJ89U-WDuncM_qIWCA2VvtgjCAIdZbc0cB2_eHgtD7SU1a0VMwiOXIdOaWB9oQ20AF4Qhrl_t0fitBGcfsyzqOaq90UD_7I9ixuB4wvGacpQPDjETczNDUDJRCL_O_/s1600/cloister+8+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrA2KFC0Xxuj05P_vJ89U-WDuncM_qIWCA2VvtgjCAIdZbc0cB2_eHgtD7SU1a0VMwiOXIdOaWB9oQ20AF4Qhrl_t0fitBGcfsyzqOaq90UD_7I9ixuB4wvGacpQPDjETczNDUDJRCL_O_/s320/cloister+8+small.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Having knitted this sample I liked the left hand pattern where the cable disappears into the 'arch' above and on the right hand pattern I liked the lace used to edge the cable. Both patterns came with charts so it was much easier to play around with the patterns in chart form. I worked up another chart and when knitted it looked like this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuYGxK3sU0j5QVuc3U_27SUxoN-YKACbekjS0OaaJY4Za0AhWgaDLVxuvBKJMO6KCCFHrd0-sUSWD91iWslSIdm05fgG86XrjOz3zMstZeDr_NOjMil3wXi73l0aaa1vqbgOJ0mK2ksCA/s1600/cloister+10+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuYGxK3sU0j5QVuc3U_27SUxoN-YKACbekjS0OaaJY4Za0AhWgaDLVxuvBKJMO6KCCFHrd0-sUSWD91iWslSIdm05fgG86XrjOz3zMstZeDr_NOjMil3wXi73l0aaa1vqbgOJ0mK2ksCA/s320/cloister+10+small.jpg" width="260" /></a></div>
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I thought it worked OK as one of the samples for the knitting holiday that year but when I got home again I decided to work on the pattern a bit more to refine it a bit more and also to make it into more of a motif pattern than an all over pattern and here is the finished result...<br />
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The finished garment is knitted in an Aran weight cotton yarn. It is a long sleeve crop jumper but it would be quite easy to re-work as a normal length jumper.fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-16783727314268493072013-03-07T16:50:00.001+00:002013-03-07T16:52:11.050+00:00Circular Shawl Cardigan finishedIn the last post I talked about re-knitting my new version of the circular shawl cardigan that was published in Knitting magazine last year. well I have now finished the re-knitted garment and if any of you came to the Unravel Knitting Festival at the end of February you may have seen me wearing the garment.<br />
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The images show the garment on my tailor's dummy which is a bit smaller then me but hopefully it show the star design and the fit reasonably well.I was quite pleased with the finished garment although I may make some slight alternations to the armhole depth when writing the pattern as I forgot to allow for the fact that the armhole opening is just a straight cast off/cast on section i.e. it needs to be a bit deeper than if you were making a shaped armhole.</div>
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The yarn has a nice drape and was nice and warm to wear even though it has elbow length sleeves. It did take quite a bit of yarn to make the cardigan, about 1kg of the Aran alpaca and it does still come down to just above my knees. </div>
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I don't know that working the garment in a thicker yarn has made much difference to trying to adjust the length as a result of the construction but I do much prefer the finish I have achieved across the top of the shoulders as a result of working decreases rather than short rows.</div>
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The garment was knitted in <a href="http://www.knitting4fun.com/" target="_blank">Knitting4fun </a> Aran Alpaca. I haven't re-written the pattern for this yarn yet but the pattern for the DK weight version is now available from me. It is called Stella Cardigan so if you are interested in purchasing the pattern please contact me. It will be available soon from my <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fiona-morris" target="_blank">Ravelry store</a> .</div>
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And now back to more knitting....</div>
<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-86428891149574104282013-02-06T13:27:00.001+00:002013-03-07T16:53:23.740+00:00Circular Shawl CardiAfter a short diversion into cooking I'm back to my knitting again. Last year one of the designs I had published by Knitting Magazine was a circular shawl cardigan.<br />
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This design was an interesting challenge because it is quite difficult to knit a circular shawl with sleeves and still get it to fit the body quite well. I wanted to avoid the problem of 'turtle back' as some people call it, when there is too much fabric across the shoulders and back neck area.<br />
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The cardigan starts at the centre of the star motif in the middle of the back and grows outwards. On my first attempt at making this design I started with an eight pointed star and decided I would cast off for the armholes when the measurement between the one point and another point 2 sections away equalled the required back shoulder width.<br />
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After casting on the armhole stitches again I worked in short rows from shoulder around the bottom to shoulder again so I didn't add any more hight to the back neck area. Once I had worked the short rows to being the inequivalent of the shoulder slope stitches back into work I continued over all the stitches for the ribbed edge band.<br />
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I then picked up stitches around the armhole and knitted the sleeves. As you can see from the photos I had nearly finished the cardigan when I decided I should put it on my tailor's dummy to see what it would look like.<br />
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The length was quite good but I didn't like the way the star pattern sat across the shoulders, I felt the sleeves were much too deep and there was quite a lot of fabric at the back neck, so I undid the whole thing and started again. This time I used a seven point star pattern and the shoulder width was take between 2 point of the star. The rest of the construction was the same as the first version.<br />
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The second version is the one show in the pictures at the top and was the pattern published in the magazine. I was happier with this version although I was aware that there are still problems with the construction. Sizing is based on shoulder width rather than bust size but because of the way the garment is constructed after the armholes are made the wider a person's shoulders are the longer the cardigan will be, so someone who is quite short but broad shouldered may find the cardigan trailing on the ground.<br />
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I decided to knit the garment again but this time in a thicker yarn, the original was in DK Alpaca so I used an Aran Alpaca, to see if the cardigan would be a better length for larger sizes. I also decided to knit the cardigan in my size (about size 16) rather than the model's size (about 8 to 10). I knitted the whole garment and tried it on. It was OK but I didn't like the way it fitted the body. The cardigan felt like it was falling off my shoulders. Although some people would not mind this I didn't feel happy with the fit so decided to undo it to the start of the armhole cast off.<br />
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When I started unpicking I realised that I had made a pattern mistake further in than the armhole cast off so undid the cardigan to the point where the mistake was. This also gave me more time to think about the construction again. I decided that the measurement needed between the points for the start of the armhole needs to be narrower that back shoulder width. I also decided to cast on all the stitches again but instead of working short rows as I did in the previous garments I decided to continue knitting around the whole circle but to decrease each side of the back neck section to create some shaping across the centre back neck area while still adding more length to the rest of the garment as it comes around to the front.<br />
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These last 2 pictures show the re-worked cardigan so far. I am still decreasing across the back neck section until I am down to the number of stitches I want for the back neck width. This is created a nice shallow diagonal line, similar to a shoulder slope line, on the back and creating more fabric to come around to the fronts before the rib band is finished. At the moment the idea seems to be working OK. I'll update when I have finished the main body piece.<br />
fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-79970302903922206732013-02-06T12:48:00.001+00:002013-02-06T12:48:23.492+00:00The finished cakeI did finish my cake a week ago on Monday in time for when the family came to visit. Here is the finished item.<br />
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I did a chocolate butter cream filing and finished the top with melted chocolate and sugar butterflies as you can see. Not necessarily the most artistic finish but the family did seem to enjoy eating it even if the sponges were a little overcooked.<br />
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I will need to get smaller cake tins if I ever use this method again but it was interesting to try...<br />
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Now back to knitting as I know what I'm doing most of the time!fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-39420377160850674522013-01-27T18:44:00.000+00:002013-01-28T00:17:45.331+00:00Cake baking not knitting!!!I know it has been a long time since I posted anything. I did have lots of knitting things I was going to post about last year but never seemed to find the right time. I must try harder this year.<br />
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On a completely different subject, I have been watching the Comic Relief Bake Off and this has inspired me to bake a cake. My family will be completely amazed as I haven't done any baking for ages so I thought I would record the event in pictures as well.<br />
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I decided I would try a new cake and a different method of making cakes at least for me. In the past I have always made a 'Victoria Sponge' type cake creaming the butter and sugar, adding eggs and then the flour etc. This cake starts with melting the butter and sugar.<br />
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That seemed to go OK. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes and then add an egg and beat the mixture. After that add the flour and cocoa.<br />
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This also went OK and then add the milk with Bicarbonate of soda added gradually. It all looked good and as you can see the cake tins were all greased and ready. You may also notice a glass of wine in the background, which is of course a very important ingredient in any cooking!<br />
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The mixture all looked fine and went into the oven to cook.<br />
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After the allotted 25 minutes I opened the oven. The cakes had risen and I checked they were cooked. I was a little concerned that they did seem a bit thin.<br />
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The cakes turned out on the wire tray to cool without any problem but I did check the recipe to find I should have used 6 inch cake tins! I don't have 6 inch cake tins. I do have 7 inch and 8 inch tins and as I had always used the 8 inch tins in the past, this is what I used, hence the 'being a bit thin'.<br />
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I still have to make the icing and put the cake together and then force my family to eat the cake, so I will report back later!fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-27959928547017085822012-05-29T16:50:00.001+01:002012-05-29T16:50:23.244+01:00French Treats Design Week Day 3Today we had a trip out to La Rochelle. As it was Sunday most of the shops were closed but there was a craft market down by the harbour. We got to La Rochelle for about 11.15 and all had a walk around. <br />
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John and I walked around the harbour from one side to the other and into part of the old town. It was a lovely day so there were lots of opportunities for taking photos.<br />
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We then met up again to have lunch together at a creperie (can't spell this). One of the savoury crepes was called 'Fiona'. I didn't choose it but my neighbour at the table did so I took a photo - fame at last!!<br />
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After lunch we all had to go and draw. I selected to try and draw the skyline over the top of the craft tents. I haven't taken pictures of my drawings as they were all quite quick (and not very good) sketches, but I might post them another time. However drawing in public does attract a bit of attention and I had several people stop to look at what I was doing. I was very pleased with myself that I managed to tell one lady in French that I was there with my teacher but that was it!</div>
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I was asked by another lady if I was an Urban Landscape Artist. I don't think she can have looked very carefully at my drawing. I did take lots of photos while I was there so I could possibly use them instead of my drawings. I know it is a bit of a cheat but 'a girl's got to do what a girl's got to do' to make the most of the design time. </div>
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I'll post some pictures of the design development from this day soon.</div>
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<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-68502788842549549732012-05-29T16:29:00.001+01:002012-05-29T16:29:12.585+01:00French Treats Design Week Day 2The first day was spent in the workshop. John gave use some black and white striped paper and explained the design project for the day was to create some optical illusion pieces of design work by cutting and resticking the striped paper.<br />
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I have done this design exercise before. It is a good fun exercise to do but can be very tiring on the eyes as you are looking at black and white and optical effects all day. These are the samples I produced during the day.<br />
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These pieces are not meant to be a finished piece but could be incorporated into some other work in small sections. I did start to put some colour into the 3rd piece but have not done any more with these pieces yet. It was a good but very tiring day. We were all in bed by about 10pm!!! very early by knitting holiday standards!fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-91785073348218945272012-05-27T08:39:00.003+01:002012-05-27T08:39:34.024+01:00French Treats Design Week Day 1I am back in France but this week as a student on a design week with John Allen. We arrived on Friday to lovely weather and a much greener Le Vieux Monastere than last year as year as you can see from the pictures.<br />
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There were also some lovely irises outside the church. It looks like it should be a good week.<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-28153257862658893112012-02-01T23:24:00.000+00:002012-02-01T23:24:40.537+00:00Rib Lace Scarf/CowlI've just posted a free copy of this scarf/cowl/snood on my <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/designers/fiona-morris" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> page <br />
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It is knitted in a chunky Baby Alpaca yarn from <a href="http://www.knitting4fun.co.uk/" target="_blank">Knitting4fun</a>. Bev sent me some of this yarn to have a play with and this is the first item I've made with it. It is amazingly soft and silky, very enjoyable to knit with.</div>
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The idea behind this design was to make the piece as versatile as possible hence the scarf/cowl/snood description. The stitch pattern is a simple rib lace eyelet pattern which opens up when the cowl is washed and blocked. The piece is a long rectangle. The version in the photos took 2 skeins of the chunky alpaca but if you knitted 3 skeins it would make a longer piece that could also be made into a mobeius.</div>
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After knitting and blocking the rectangle I then sewed buttons onto each end of the scarf. With the stocking stitch edging side facing up I sewed 4 buttons next to the first row of eyelets on one end of the scarf and 4 more buttons on the other end and opposite edge of the scarf. I then turned the scarf over and sewed one button on the outside eyelet at the opposite edge to teh 4 buttons so I could then button the rectangle into a loop or wrap through the eyelet holes.</div>
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The eyelet rib allows you to button the rectangle in lots of different ways asshow in the photos above.</div>
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I've got a number of other ideas to try out with this yarn but they will have to wait until I have finished the magazine commissions I currently have.</div>fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-2736143538241185942012-01-25T13:46:00.000+00:002012-01-25T13:46:57.194+00:00More Christmas presents, Knitting DVDsI have been collecting the Knitting Daily DVDs and this Christmas as well as getting lots of books I was also lucky enough to get series 4 and 5 of Knitting Daily from my brother and sister-in-law. They live in the States so can get me knitting related presents from places in the States that either don't ship outside the USA or cost a fortune to get shipped.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj24CSjgJ3rxmcA21nptTzezrYIrg40oc9k5JTGU-YGBbxn8xUeUnolh-ILIDvzsMG-nebe7nMIi8IdYUV8R_q-etPt_eoh3j0f_GygsFJeR4zzIk78zH1Lw7iW6iRwcxs40JwwVRTIWxnQ/s1600/knitting+dvds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj24CSjgJ3rxmcA21nptTzezrYIrg40oc9k5JTGU-YGBbxn8xUeUnolh-ILIDvzsMG-nebe7nMIi8IdYUV8R_q-etPt_eoh3j0f_GygsFJeR4zzIk78zH1Lw7iW6iRwcxs40JwwVRTIWxnQ/s320/knitting+dvds.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Having done a bit of demonstrating on film for Knit1.tv I am always interested to see how other people approach demonstrating on film. Knitting Daily is a bit different from demonstrating for Knit1.tv as it is a Public Broadcast program in America. Each programme runs for about 20 to 25 minutes and covers a number of topics so each topic is only about 5 minutes long. They do lots of interesting things and invite different designers and yarn companies to talk about their work/products but they don't have time to show anything in great detail.<br />
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I still enjoy watching the programmes. I haven't quite finished watching all of both series as there are 4 DVDs in each series but at least I can knit while watching. <br />
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I've now got series 1 to 5 but Knitting Daily are on series 8 now so I'm hoping for another one for my birthday if I'm lucky!!fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-33845260867583837082012-01-24T18:40:00.000+00:002012-01-24T18:40:16.414+00:00Knitting Christmas PresentsTime is flying past already this year but I thought I would still share some of my knitting Christmas presents - books as usual. I did receive lots of books on knitting and crochet this Christmas but I still haven';t had time to do more than have a quick look through each book.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwGVaIHmfFOhkjaBLPIuzqUI1Be4IthljvE9Uq3xj5wB4flFtIP0HQIeJZ9ewoCEVY6rkMd_o1LNNt6ND10V1WBKtfp0eg2hktecCFs44KHmBBsRZXaig0tTbLoCBkCLemwGrp44RSBZ3/s1600/3+alice+starmore+book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwGVaIHmfFOhkjaBLPIuzqUI1Be4IthljvE9Uq3xj5wB4flFtIP0HQIeJZ9ewoCEVY6rkMd_o1LNNt6ND10V1WBKtfp0eg2hktecCFs44KHmBBsRZXaig0tTbLoCBkCLemwGrp44RSBZ3/s320/3+alice+starmore+book.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
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I already have a number of Alice Starmore books (her Fair Isle and Aran books to name just 2) and I like the way she puts stranded colour patterns together so it was great to get this book to add to my collection.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeQpQVXfoz4Vi9rnzZtTOz2SwOFIO7DjTcyOniaxQD7ZQmmLDFyBGeYYPH-2Xn_khZQGN-0Fuz6fC-sfxe8VtD6fQb9Ov_YKfnIbE8dj8kfO4AkZ7eF5KbtAmwnTjhRCnP4pPqPAfZtXW/s1600/6+sock+master.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAeQpQVXfoz4Vi9rnzZtTOz2SwOFIO7DjTcyOniaxQD7ZQmmLDFyBGeYYPH-2Xn_khZQGN-0Fuz6fC-sfxe8VtD6fQb9Ov_YKfnIbE8dj8kfO4AkZ7eF5KbtAmwnTjhRCnP4pPqPAfZtXW/s320/6+sock+master.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmHy5dRYNItYfJaMGWxtb19-IZ5d4brjC8CessYIGvrU39l-etKdwxeTQXHMoWj0b-Zj7iL9epjukpWMVI6rRJm8TI2tPCx8suSjEgdHBS2HqtxYpeYWaK3tyJNuWf4bNr7jy85y3qmtq/s1600/4+sock+east+and+west.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmHy5dRYNItYfJaMGWxtb19-IZ5d4brjC8CessYIGvrU39l-etKdwxeTQXHMoWj0b-Zj7iL9epjukpWMVI6rRJm8TI2tPCx8suSjEgdHBS2HqtxYpeYWaK3tyJNuWf4bNr7jy85y3qmtq/s320/4+sock+east+and+west.jpg" width="269" /></a></div>
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I'm currently working on a couple of sock designs so both these sock books are interesting. The Ann Budd book covers a variety of ways of designing and knitting socks as well as having patterns from well known sock designers. The 'Knitted Socks East and West' book has some very interesting stitch patterns which are unusual constructions rather than the socks themselves being unusual. I need to find time to try out some of these stitch patterns!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguumOePU6Oe68EtOBumZFAzugBMKFvEUrnLyJ8ZycgHAg8Dx0xuFwyZrCDXms4bvHUAuiky9Treebcios7YGKKXQNGdbiE86abl5a82bd4ZHzqRUss8cVxzGNe8j1yizACGnaTsajtR3y_/s1600/7+norwegian+knitting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguumOePU6Oe68EtOBumZFAzugBMKFvEUrnLyJ8ZycgHAg8Dx0xuFwyZrCDXms4bvHUAuiky9Treebcios7YGKKXQNGdbiE86abl5a82bd4ZHzqRUss8cVxzGNe8j1yizACGnaTsajtR3y_/s320/7+norwegian+knitting.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lots more interesting stranded stitch patterns and information about constructing Norwegian style sweaters; I've only had a very quick look at this book so far.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTtE2smzJPapIttLRJtnjdzVTmLpTdK0Q_W_Giro4ClZLTl5mJgaG9DteDkNwXCQonZWlbJJx55gQKjwtEyNyCqNNnZf-iU29p4fLuz-Oqc2IPDQcGvt3nIkDkh-gfwJtI74q52G2xXDGT/s1600/5+knitting+book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTtE2smzJPapIttLRJtnjdzVTmLpTdK0Q_W_Giro4ClZLTl5mJgaG9DteDkNwXCQonZWlbJJx55gQKjwtEyNyCqNNnZf-iU29p4fLuz-Oqc2IPDQcGvt3nIkDkh-gfwJtI74q52G2xXDGT/s320/5+knitting+book.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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When I first saw this book on Amazon I thought it would be an OK techniques book. I was in my local Waterstones before Christmas and the book happened to be in there so i had a look through it. I was pleasantly surprised to find lots of information and different/more advanced techniques and stitches as well as the basics so I added it to my Christmas list and DH got it for me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4pu9iagQ_laTL958nJSWyC_W5tlXurvAr-DoVWSfCyUTyTPN6j0l6Vs35CJEPEJEY6fvjCTN1x1jPOZrVJ6qQTO8xHFtqyy868Wh-VZJo87LRHwJEFfD8T0PH2gmBE1hRBnd8rE_sPSk/s1600/8+knitting+around+the+world.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4pu9iagQ_laTL958nJSWyC_W5tlXurvAr-DoVWSfCyUTyTPN6j0l6Vs35CJEPEJEY6fvjCTN1x1jPOZrVJ6qQTO8xHFtqyy868Wh-VZJo87LRHwJEFfD8T0PH2gmBE1hRBnd8rE_sPSk/s320/8+knitting+around+the+world.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
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I also saw this book in Waterstones at the same time and was very impressed. It does cover knitting from all parts of the world so if you are interested in different knitting traditions this would be a great book to get. I've only had time to have a quick look so far, I just need a few years of nothing else to do to read all these books.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH0fey85mbzJIJTU18k5rstyhRAwHkzgwadVgmkt7ybFgUCr0xCJsal1AT-gNP8X0ckTmj3-gHAe-mnPw69PHwztpCpCNBhINC2E-dMytO9WmWOTTfXLycjE7tTK1KwU5XY0fewiEhQCqC/s1600/1+alpaca+yarn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH0fey85mbzJIJTU18k5rstyhRAwHkzgwadVgmkt7ybFgUCr0xCJsal1AT-gNP8X0ckTmj3-gHAe-mnPw69PHwztpCpCNBhINC2E-dMytO9WmWOTTfXLycjE7tTK1KwU5XY0fewiEhQCqC/s320/1+alpaca+yarn.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I didn't get any yarn at Christmas but we were in Devon with friends at New Year and visited Totnes (the home of the hippies and flairs!!). At the top of the main shopping street was a shop called Greenfibre (I think). It sold organic cotton fabrics and cloths, lotions, soaps etc but as I pasted the window I noticed some skeins of yarn - alpaca yarn at half price. Those of you who know me will know I don't need any more yarn but it was too good a bargain to pass so in I went and bought several skeins. I don't know what I will do with them yet, I may mix them with the chunky baby alpaca I got from Bev Beattie at Knitting4fun, I'm sure I'll think of something!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZJtUnaMSv_cChZxOUQ5Zu7PXohlqb0TVh5oDBKdtzkNC4S5P1eiMK4GSoaBnClkmbSP2X-5scYGYCKuqovPgqmnd43iZLG02mHO1ZzSTj283dZCZ_ZN1PAHNtqfCMitO2IGQeGjJm51s/s1600/2+unravel+book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZJtUnaMSv_cChZxOUQ5Zu7PXohlqb0TVh5oDBKdtzkNC4S5P1eiMK4GSoaBnClkmbSP2X-5scYGYCKuqovPgqmnd43iZLG02mHO1ZzSTj283dZCZ_ZN1PAHNtqfCMitO2IGQeGjJm51s/s320/2+unravel+book.jpg" width="262" /></a></div>
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At the beginning of January DH and I went up to London as our kids gave us tickets to see Jersey Boys on the first Saturday in January.We met Frances up in London in the afternoon and after getting another ticket for her we were walking around and saw Foyles book shop. I like books shops almost as much as yarn shops so we went in and I found this book which covers the Unravel exhibition in Belgium last year. The book is in English and again looks very interesting hence why I bought it. It wasn't cheap as it has been imported from the States but has lots of intere3sting information about current knitting artists etc.<br />
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Well i think I did OK... just need a few years of time to devote to reading.<br />
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</div>fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-41346065316102709772011-12-02T05:10:00.001+00:002011-12-02T05:19:55.856+00:00Rosie's Slippers PatternAt the end of last year I posted pictures of some slippers I made but I never got around to posting the pattern although it has been available as a free pattern from me. Anyway for those of you who may be interested here is the pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiQ1cExj7s0cSHV5XZIjUaaOXXjxgBA0Ljr-09rS1b0Bh9k1Q9vOXcq7qmWUx_SnDkJc2WDcsqHMSHhBXkt-JPndSwWTKcA8iEE6dYuHJOvShTsTG7nLO6Z7p6VXjdD4d_VAC4ptggEpNk/s1600/1+slippers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiQ1cExj7s0cSHV5XZIjUaaOXXjxgBA0Ljr-09rS1b0Bh9k1Q9vOXcq7qmWUx_SnDkJc2WDcsqHMSHhBXkt-JPndSwWTKcA8iEE6dYuHJOvShTsTG7nLO6Z7p6VXjdD4d_VAC4ptggEpNk/s320/1+slippers.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<strong>Size </strong>Foot Length <br />
Child 16.5cm<br />
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Small 18cm<br />
Medium 20.5cm<br />
Large 23cm<br />
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<strong>Materials</strong><br />
1x100gm skein Colinette Skye and 1x 100gm skein Colinette Graffiti (large size may need a 2nd skein)<br />
Or approx 100gms each of a combination of 2 Chunky Yarns or an Aran and a Super Chunky (at least 90 meters per 100gms per yarn)<br />
8mm needles<br />
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<strong>Tension</strong><br />
11sts and 11 ridges to 10 cm in garter stitch using 8mm needles<br />
(1 ridge = 2 knit rows)<br />
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<strong>Knitting Notes</strong><br />
The slippers are knitted in a garter slip stitch pattern; the slip stitch is used to define the edges of the slipper sole.<br />
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<strong>Chain selvedge</strong> A chain selvedge is used throughout as follows;<br />
Beginning of every row: k1 through back of loop (k1tbl)<br />
End of every row: knit to last stitch, yarn forward, slip stitch purlwise.<br />
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Knit pick-up Put the tip of the right needle through the knitting just below the outside loop of the chain selvedge stitch and make a loop around the needle as if to knit. Pull the loop through to make a new stitch. <br />
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Cast off very loosely. If you have a problem casting off loosely use a needle 2 sizes larger to knit the cast off row.<br />
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<strong>Abbreviations</strong><br />
k2tog - knit 2 together; s1 k1 psso - slip 1 knit 1 pass slip stitch over; s1 - slip 1 purlwise; k1tbl - knit 1 through back of loop; yfwd - yarn forward to the front of the knitting; yb – yarn back<br />
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<strong>Slipper</strong><br />
Using one strand of each yarn and 8mm needles cast on 15[19, 21, 23]sts<br />
Increase for heel: k1tbl, k6[8, 9, 10], -<br />
<strong>Child & Small</strong> k1, p1, k1, p1 into next stitch<br />
<strong>Medium </strong>k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 into next stitch<br />
<strong>Large </strong>k1, yo, p1, k1,yo, k1 into next stitch<br />
- K6[8, 9, 10], yfwd, s1 - 18[22, 25, 28]sts.<br />
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<strong>Row 1:</strong> (WS) k1tbl, k4[6, 7, 8], yfwd, s1, yb, k6[6, 7, 8], yfwd, s1, yb, k4[6, 7, 8], yfwd, s1.<br />
<strong>Row 2:</strong> (RS) k1tbl, k to last stitch, yfwd, s1.<br />
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 16[18, 20, 23] ridges are complete finishing after a WS row.<br />
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<strong>Shape Toe</strong><br />
<strong>Row 1:</strong> k1tbl, k2[4, 5, 6], k2tog, k1, k6[6, 7, 8], k1, k2tog, k2[4, 5, 6], yfwd, s1. – 16[20, 23 26]sts.<br />
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<strong>Row 2:</strong> k1tbl, k1[3, 4, 5], k2tog, yfwd, s1, yb, s1 k1 psso, k2[2, 3, 4], k2tog, yfwd, s1, yb, s1 k1 psso, k1[3, 4, 5], yfwd, s1. – 12[16, 19, 22]sts.<br />
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<strong>Row 3: Child </strong>k1tbl, k2tog, k1, s1 k1 psso, k2tog, k1, s1 k1 psso, k1, pull yarn end through these last 8sts, pull up toe and fasten off tightly.<br />
<strong>Small, Medium & Large:</strong> k1tbl, k[3, 3, 4], k2tog, k1, k[4, 5, 6], k1, s1 k1 psso, k[2, 3, 4], yfwd, s1. – [14, 17, 20]sts.<br />
<strong>Row 4:</strong> k1tbl, k[1, 2, 3], k2tog, yfdw, s1, yb, s1 k1 psso, k[0, 1, 2], k2tog, yfwd, s1, yb, s1 k1 psso, k[1, 2, 3], yfwd, s1. – [10, 13, 16]sts.<br /><strong>Small </strong>pull yarn end through these last 10sts, pull up toe and fasten off tightly.<br />
<strong>Row 5: Medium</strong> k1tbl, k1, k2tog, k1, k3, k1, s1 k1 psso, k2, pull yarn end through these last 11sts, pull up toe and fasten off tightly.<br />
<strong>Large </strong>k1tbl, k2, k2tog, k1, s1 k1 psso, k2tog, k1, s1 k1 psso, k3, pull yarn end through these last 12sts, pull up toe and fasten off tightly.<br />
<strong>To join the centre seam</strong><br />
With RS together and starting at the toe, sew the centre seam by over sewing the selvedge edge half chains together (the other half of the selvedge chain should be left as a raised detail on the RS). Sew the centre seam for approx. half the length of the slipper.<br />
<strong>Trim</strong><br />
Using main yarn (or 3 strands of fur yarn e.g. Silky Chic) and 8mm needles, knit pick up 1 stitch for every selvedge chain, knitting through the outside half of the chain only, and pick up 1 stitch at the centre seam. Knit 2 rows. Cast off very loosely.<br />
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Alternative trim – using main yarn (or 3 strands fur yarn) and large size crochet hook (size 7mm or 8mm) work a double crochet for every selvedge chain. Work 1 more row of double crochet or a row of crab stitch if you prefer.<br />
<strong>To sew up heel</strong><br />
With RS together, over sew the cast on edge from heel increase to the top of the slipper.<br />
<br />fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-54732952818758496192011-12-01T23:11:00.000+00:002011-12-01T23:11:39.831+00:00Knitted Christmas Decorations<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">A couple of weeks ago I taught a workshop on making knitted Christmas decorations using up left over yarns. One of the items was a 'gift bag' which could be used as a way of 'wrapping' a small gift or it could be used as a purse/bag although it would need a fabric lining.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuKacLco3HiK4kcFtdFwDNGtcrOEtzMquXZsBk5CyiiHJesROZkKXJ9brn_O3bhymoO-9-Ij1Zh-IFPefBSZjyTQ91lW7FTSsUFDEweIMyfi1JJxvovsIoxQpfjSbemW8S70R-Hno1dBM6/s1600/3+bag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuKacLco3HiK4kcFtdFwDNGtcrOEtzMquXZsBk5CyiiHJesROZkKXJ9brn_O3bhymoO-9-Ij1Zh-IFPefBSZjyTQ91lW7FTSsUFDEweIMyfi1JJxvovsIoxQpfjSbemW8S70R-Hno1dBM6/s320/3+bag.jpg" width="248" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">The original pattern was designed to be knitted in the round. During the day a couple of ladies decided to knit the bag but found it quite challenging working in the round from the centre of the base outwards so I decided to re-design the bag so it could be knitted flat. I had a ball of King Cole Galaxy with me so started to knit the new bag shown in the photo above. The pattern worked quite well and the yarn gives a Chrismassy feel.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">I previously designed and knitted some Christmas baubles using up left over sock yarn.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjmO96aip06Sf7Sql-kN9XmLljIxxrlf2veewx_nNj2I55Yk5cyzC5PDSMPvvilnhxiZfst7GGIg3VH0FF8Fbvrb4WhXXbuDTq_0FheekPbh74_8Fs_Ql5WMOIHmYxl-nnDP3zKJvw4jb/s1600/bauble+large+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjmO96aip06Sf7Sql-kN9XmLljIxxrlf2veewx_nNj2I55Yk5cyzC5PDSMPvvilnhxiZfst7GGIg3VH0FF8Fbvrb4WhXXbuDTq_0FheekPbh74_8Fs_Ql5WMOIHmYxl-nnDP3zKJvw4jb/s320/bauble+large+1.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtSv0FlcofSeDctPJEwtnnpEflQrM5ZiEN1eenfPI7BXTP80Kv9dxqc_qxKp8AGhpAT7f1yftgDbK7xopQFQhLIaDm26xOEI1KmCvou6lkanDoq4mhyphenhyphenahXCM3lcs89p2GuV8-fYMPUl1G3/s1600/bauble+silver+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtSv0FlcofSeDctPJEwtnnpEflQrM5ZiEN1eenfPI7BXTP80Kv9dxqc_qxKp8AGhpAT7f1yftgDbK7xopQFQhLIaDm26xOEI1KmCvou6lkanDoq4mhyphenhyphenahXCM3lcs89p2GuV8-fYMPUl1G3/s320/bauble+silver+1.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFchUY8-B5jh1LTt2VNQoJVKJ-XC32UYxpGCccWqzYo3HKJ3SEbw9GYMazyvszj2gyYm4mmxsxxFJcHJ5ZTkynl9IfQOBfMlwlpb-2qicH8hzMzu_zMMu3n_Z8K8ZSQTckwlz8pPyoCIw/s1600/bauble+small+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFchUY8-B5jh1LTt2VNQoJVKJ-XC32UYxpGCccWqzYo3HKJ3SEbw9GYMazyvszj2gyYm4mmxsxxFJcHJ5ZTkynl9IfQOBfMlwlpb-2qicH8hzMzu_zMMu3n_Z8K8ZSQTckwlz8pPyoCIw/s320/bauble+small+1.jpg" width="226" /></a></div><br />
The baubles are knitted flat and sewn around a foam ball or ping pong ball (depending on the size). You could also use polyester stuffing but the bauble doesn't keep its shape as well if it is just stuffed. As I still had quite a bit of the Galaxy yarn left I also knitted a Christmas bauble. As I knitted it I made sure the sequins were pushed to the knit side of the fabric. As Galaxy is a DK yarn rather than 4ply as used for the other baubles I did have to adjust the pattern.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b5TR3qYlur0OSNGxczz4_A_PguebADE6ZlmkraBfGg-zTeBdznqejPQ8hSB6mG6-OvIZbv-8i1QNcqp2yHpaw3FtTlen8vE84Ke7D8Ujr98e55TmW6Opva6s4x4mHJyy847E4xzOubfk/s1600/2+white+bauble.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b5TR3qYlur0OSNGxczz4_A_PguebADE6ZlmkraBfGg-zTeBdznqejPQ8hSB6mG6-OvIZbv-8i1QNcqp2yHpaw3FtTlen8vE84Ke7D8Ujr98e55TmW6Opva6s4x4mHJyy847E4xzOubfk/s320/2+white+bauble.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><br />
The Galaxy yarn does work very well and you could probably get several baubles out of one ball.<br />
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Previously I also knitted a little angel again using up left over yarn. The angel is based on a simple finger puppet pattern so it could be used as a finger puppet or as a decoration for the Christmas tree<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4YLSuePvXZZzTkE8BJ6GIsnfMy6PpZAOWBt0bo3EYX_MjnoAtzmg4YmWCAOqUayJcOlWrRepH9NtWifSbemBfMi7Py8mJ8O8zxrpGhzkXFdut2JmPKUk_SnfXTxq_W6D1ILAYlnrX8OSJ/s1600/angel+white+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dda="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4YLSuePvXZZzTkE8BJ6GIsnfMy6PpZAOWBt0bo3EYX_MjnoAtzmg4YmWCAOqUayJcOlWrRepH9NtWifSbemBfMi7Py8mJ8O8zxrpGhzkXFdut2JmPKUk_SnfXTxq_W6D1ILAYlnrX8OSJ/s320/angel+white+1.jpg" width="221" /></a></div><br />
The angel in the picture was knitted using 4ply yarns. If knitted in DK yarns it will come out bigger but still works well as a decoration. It was fun to design these items for the workshop. I now need to knit some to add to my Christmas tree when we put it up. We don't usually put our decorations up until about a week before Christmas so I've still got time..!!<br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;"></div>fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523563600334998985.post-5708204741393549902011-11-06T17:29:00.000+00:002011-11-06T17:29:31.412+00:00More design developmentThere were some interesting cloisters at the Abbey which I used to inspire a couple of stitch patterns. I was teaching cables as one of my workshops on the knitting week in France and used the cloisters pictures to inspire some cable designs.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYqu98wj0A5z3MPRgbFhCiWX0zCzzEkKWn5hA532LDi0Va7VqCkjsnPWeecCdboLYBJbbpcHePJuV8yGeidSNyYR-Ey659SBhTUBN87EBZnncMw9596pOxn1K9BS96aCjEeqmpHw0HVDe/s1600/cloister+1+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYqu98wj0A5z3MPRgbFhCiWX0zCzzEkKWn5hA532LDi0Va7VqCkjsnPWeecCdboLYBJbbpcHePJuV8yGeidSNyYR-Ey659SBhTUBN87EBZnncMw9596pOxn1K9BS96aCjEeqmpHw0HVDe/s320/cloister+1+small.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
I used a filter in Photoshop to turn the photo into an outline image (at the top of the page above) and then traced over this image. This helped me to understand how the arches work with each other and interlink.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYThoDgeUaiS7_gDRZ_PX-088DPS9ZYueYr_zYpvz1XNAFgXOIMzcLTnife5rymVWrL208zp_JrCz-oUi8fD_3T_4Lw7K7dhQw44mkifpKmoYptbgzaB9aWLEjpKYdm2xQCQpuhUaNjvZB/s1600/cloister+2+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYThoDgeUaiS7_gDRZ_PX-088DPS9ZYueYr_zYpvz1XNAFgXOIMzcLTnife5rymVWrL208zp_JrCz-oUi8fD_3T_4Lw7K7dhQw44mkifpKmoYptbgzaB9aWLEjpKYdm2xQCQpuhUaNjvZB/s320/cloister+2+small.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibbQXmW8WInFnagWZuHPLpiSlzGNq_fgLGVxBPzk5Io_cth0GnTL9qJiLSL8sjvGjgR2BHzzupYTH1zg8dyUzkTLRWFYMZoIoOGWKSR5ELk36JJ0XBvLnEm8rEw11Eh324bYcLivstU5Su/s1600/cloister+3+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibbQXmW8WInFnagWZuHPLpiSlzGNq_fgLGVxBPzk5Io_cth0GnTL9qJiLSL8sjvGjgR2BHzzupYTH1zg8dyUzkTLRWFYMZoIoOGWKSR5ELk36JJ0XBvLnEm8rEw11Eh324bYcLivstU5Su/s320/cloister+3+small.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
I traced off a section of arches and then payed around with the tracing to see how they could be linked. I liked the images on the double page image above but felt this was quite complicated so decided to use the simpler image above to translate into a cable pattern. I like Bavarian Twisted Stitch patterns so decided to try to produce this type of cable.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiriq6uM176TYGzhIGQnXkopKVWID12HXJkqq6by6KQxOB2z2sNiWhhm1vItBWk1WGsSnSa0gLJI-5d6cBtEibwxjE1y8i9z00ISMvaLUT0vRIxdwWPwZAVPpi1mrs2cKd9r2yc4valbFm2/s1600/cloister+4+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiriq6uM176TYGzhIGQnXkopKVWID12HXJkqq6by6KQxOB2z2sNiWhhm1vItBWk1WGsSnSa0gLJI-5d6cBtEibwxjE1y8i9z00ISMvaLUT0vRIxdwWPwZAVPpi1mrs2cKd9r2yc4valbFm2/s320/cloister+4+small.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
This was the first graph I tried drawing but was not happy with the way the cables were linking.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGtKp7ScsUUevyPH5Wh4bBPmdlwoKlmFV6evU1ZKg1HPKasj6KryBLZ3SerGI70Ua9mJJBq-dx2zD1F9rFmQzytKyj1B5955ybTT5r_fYk44TmyExhtP_LiIbG4sm1051ed1i5lLQXEasb/s1600/cloister+5+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGtKp7ScsUUevyPH5Wh4bBPmdlwoKlmFV6evU1ZKg1HPKasj6KryBLZ3SerGI70Ua9mJJBq-dx2zD1F9rFmQzytKyj1B5955ybTT5r_fYk44TmyExhtP_LiIbG4sm1051ed1i5lLQXEasb/s320/cloister+5+small.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
This was the next chart I drew but was still not very happy with the way the cables linked together. The chart wasn't giving me the type of pattern I wanted.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-uO5DUsGY2H1EdruipZSAXJ0DIghBDj03KDe7IJ9JChlqHlVCXN0Eyp_Z-rdfJH-5io2nLF5_PLsvv-JlGsqqEnVRt_XU5HU7K0e7Gt6TEpA2D63gm8Kq3IpAytHvXuaRCNXatpCmSimO/s1600/cloister+6+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-uO5DUsGY2H1EdruipZSAXJ0DIghBDj03KDe7IJ9JChlqHlVCXN0Eyp_Z-rdfJH-5io2nLF5_PLsvv-JlGsqqEnVRt_XU5HU7K0e7Gt6TEpA2D63gm8Kq3IpAytHvXuaRCNXatpCmSimO/s320/cloister+6+small.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
This 3rd chart did seem to give the the arch shapes I was trying to produce so I knitted this graph.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUO-2tWo8sgUBqO0sEPhpcSFxXaAlElp5JGOEqwg5b5RmnosJCvluWIFX7wOHd_1tNu88ZLz9gJ0HOFUGSE2eGVkKlL9yIMc6rUAeOgPUThiPyRkYgvqkRHiqckaZNJAhqtV-8yBuogd35/s1600/cloister+7+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUO-2tWo8sgUBqO0sEPhpcSFxXaAlElp5JGOEqwg5b5RmnosJCvluWIFX7wOHd_1tNu88ZLz9gJ0HOFUGSE2eGVkKlL9yIMc6rUAeOgPUThiPyRkYgvqkRHiqckaZNJAhqtV-8yBuogd35/s320/cloister+7+small.jpg" width="274" /></a></div><br />
I did quite like the pattern this produced and I think it would work as an all over pattern on a larger scale as I think the repeats would link in quite well.<br />
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As well as developing the stitch pattern above I also had a look through the stitch pattern books to see if I could find any cable patterns that resemble arches. These 2 samples both worked quite well.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrA2KFC0Xxuj05P_vJ89U-WDuncM_qIWCA2VvtgjCAIdZbc0cB2_eHgtD7SU1a0VMwiOXIdOaWB9oQ20AF4Qhrl_t0fitBGcfsyzqOaq90UD_7I9ixuB4wvGacpQPDjETczNDUDJRCL_O_/s1600/cloister+8+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrA2KFC0Xxuj05P_vJ89U-WDuncM_qIWCA2VvtgjCAIdZbc0cB2_eHgtD7SU1a0VMwiOXIdOaWB9oQ20AF4Qhrl_t0fitBGcfsyzqOaq90UD_7I9ixuB4wvGacpQPDjETczNDUDJRCL_O_/s320/cloister+8+small.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Having knitted these 2 samples from charts I though I could develop my own version combining elements from both samples. The resulting chart and sample are shown below.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmOMsfha8QVDCNzFJeKyL27L1DXKjXXPoRueNmRaU0oPmGFztqFnZD5DQbt3aJGo0xbiy2zoDCT-ExYOq7xcBoGshfeC6rarF7byCuFSZvimS9M8d43HoPGIbJvHYXrz5bWredrIK6IZ4B/s1600/cloister+9+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmOMsfha8QVDCNzFJeKyL27L1DXKjXXPoRueNmRaU0oPmGFztqFnZD5DQbt3aJGo0xbiy2zoDCT-ExYOq7xcBoGshfeC6rarF7byCuFSZvimS9M8d43HoPGIbJvHYXrz5bWredrIK6IZ4B/s320/cloister+9+small.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuYGxK3sU0j5QVuc3U_27SUxoN-YKACbekjS0OaaJY4Za0AhWgaDLVxuvBKJMO6KCCFHrd0-sUSWD91iWslSIdm05fgG86XrjOz3zMstZeDr_NOjMil3wXi73l0aaa1vqbgOJ0mK2ksCA/s1600/cloister+10+small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuYGxK3sU0j5QVuc3U_27SUxoN-YKACbekjS0OaaJY4Za0AhWgaDLVxuvBKJMO6KCCFHrd0-sUSWD91iWslSIdm05fgG86XrjOz3zMstZeDr_NOjMil3wXi73l0aaa1vqbgOJ0mK2ksCA/s320/cloister+10+small.jpg" width="260" /></a></div><br />
I like the way the cables work into a point with moss (seed) stitch and reverse stocking stitch filling in the other areas. I haven't thought how I would use this sample yet beyond making the basic sample for the workshop.fidesignshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08302167080882493381noreply@blogger.com0